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1/SPRING 2013 World Victory of Russian line Cover Story, page 20 ALMAZ-HOLDING 20th Anniversary Russian Market 2013 Directory DESIGN TRENDS: Anatomy etc.


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Professional quorterly 1 / SPRING, 2013 Dear colleagues! The 2013 year has brought new problems and new hopes to the Russian jewelers. A state policy reduces to the increasing of the administrative burden on business and does not imply any measures to promote the development of domestic production of jewelry and still creates the problems. All hopes are connected with new victories of Russian design at the international level and with an outlet of Russian goods onto the world markets. The special report of this edition is dedicated to the winners and finalists of the III Moscow contest of jewellers «The Russian line», which has been held by the magazine «Jewellery Review». This year the jury of the famous International Jewellery Design Excellence Award had examined about 250 items – the winners of national competitions from many countries, and as a result on March 4th two Russian articles were named among the eight of winners, and the set «Butterflies» made by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov received a Grand-Prix and a title of the Champion of Champions! In the section «Trend Book», which contains all the best of being presented at the foremost world’s exhibitions you can see the way as the collections of Russian jewelers fall in a global context. In the season «Spring-summer 2013» the jewelers show courage of choosing a bright and cheerful palette and unexpected combinations of colors. The main feature can be considered of interest to the anatomical and technological styles. Jewelry created within these tendencies, is distinguished by bizarre details of movable elements and expressive forms. Outstanding achievements arouse interest in the Russian jewelry. Our companies receive invitations to participate in the world's largest exhibitions, and today's Media-holding «Jewellery Review» is involved in the formation of Russian exhibition halls in Las Vegas, London, Singapore. On the other hand, the Russian jewelry market is becoming more and more open to the import of high-quality natural stones and jewelry, the trading networks of Russia want to work with European brands. Last year our Media-holding published «The handbook of the jewelry market-2012» for the first time in Russia, and in this number RDJ you will find a piece of this Handbook in which you are interested most of all. And in September a full-format «Russian Jewellery Market Directory-2013» in English will come out. We offer a subscription to this unique Handbook. In a word, there is a lot of new plans and new work to come. Stay with us! Magazin about Russian and CIS-countries jewellery market Publication of Jewellery Review Media Holding, MOSCOW. S Editor-in-Chief Alexey SHCHERBINA, Ph Doctor (History) Managing Editor Irina SLESAREVA Design Tatiana KALINNIKOVA Georgiy ZHILTSOV Web-site Ekaterina RAZMAKHAEVA E-mail: Kosmonavtov str., 18/1 Tel./Fax: +7(495) 682-2262; E-mail:, The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements. No part of Russian Diamonds & Jewellery may be reproduced without reference. This issue was authorized for publication on April, 2013. © Yuvelirnoye Obozreniye Yours sincerely, Alexey Shcherbina, Editor-in-Chief Registered by the Russian Federation Committee for the Press. Certificate No. 018300


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MARKET REPORT Russian design is number one! Results of the III MIJDA «Russian line-2012» 4 CONT E NT S MARKET VIEW New reality of Russian market 14 TRENDS Arts and Crafts Reincarnation “Beauty of Russia 2011” Natalia Pereverzeva wears Jewelry Almaz Holding company 22 COVER RETAIL Russian Jewellery Market 2012. Directory 57 COVER STORY IN TER V IEW Natalia Pereverzeva: Gold, diamonds and pearls will never go out of fashion! 20 2 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 3


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CONT E NT S DESIGN T REND bOOK • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Back to black Wild carnation Turqiose Sweet caramel Russian seasons Anatomy Scientific method Around flowers Chic in the strip Key factor The temptation of pearls Butterflies Ready to fly Letters In motion Crossing the Strait of 26 SPRING, 2 0 1 3 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 3


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REPORT MARKE T RuSSIAN DESIGN IS NuMbER ONE! This year Russian designers won world jewellery contest again. Already 2 pieces were included into the 12 winners of International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2013, the final round of which was held on March 4 in Hong Kong. Set «Butterflies» by Ilgiz Fazulzyanov was awarded by the Grand Prix and a title “Champion of Champions” among near 250 laureates of national contests from France, Italy, USA, Germany, Thailand, Brasil etc. Ring «The secret of a first drops» (Estet company) was award in Distinction Design nomination. It is first such outstanding victories since the Faberge time! Russian participants of IJDEA-2013 had been delegated to Hong Kong as a laureates of Moscow International Jewellery Design Award «Russian line-2012». 4 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 3


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REPO R T The jury of the «Russian line»: Igor LOBORTAS, founder of the Classical jewelry house «Lobortas» (Chairman) In nowember, 20 the results of the III MIJDA «Russian line-2012» were summed up. In the course of it more than 70 best pieces of jewelers of Russia and of the CIS countries which had been completed in 2011-2012 and had already obtained the recognition of the jury of various competitions, were considered. The most prestige Russian competition of jewelry design was established by Jewellery Review magazine (English-language version – Russian Diamonds&Jewellery) in 2008. Its name «Russian line» symbolizes the national idea of the jewelry design through the concept of «the Russian world» as a product of the multinational ethnos creative. The main goal of the project is to determine the best works of contemporary jewelers and with draw their names to the world market. The first success was achieved in 2011, when Ilgiz Fazulzyanov had been sent to International Jewellery Design Excellence Award among other laureates of «Russian line-2010» and for the first time in the history of contemporary Russian jewellery art had received the Grand Prix for the pendant «Bulfinchers». Our history of jewelry art already knows a few such examples. So, 160 years ago, Russian jewelers obtained the three highest awards at the 1-st world exhibition in London. Those were the times of karl Faberge, Pavel Ovchinnikov, Mikhail Perkhin etc. And in 1996, the designer from Yekaterinburg Elena Opaleva came into the number 28 of the laureates of the Diamond International Award of De Beers. It was not easy to organize a competition of such a level by a number of reasons. It is difficult even for one day to gather works by artists from different parts of Russia and the CIS on one platform specially, even more so as many of the works were executed in the single copy and could be sold by the time the finals. Even more difficult it was to determine the best jewelers so as in the competition the award-winning works of both masters with a world name and beginning authors were presented. In «Exclusive. High jewelry art» nomination the best pieces are named: ring «Vostok-1» by Jewellery Studio DHARA, pendant «Royal regatta» by Eugenia Buruakova, ring «Alexandrite» by Alexander Smirnov, set «Endless knot of happiness» (Finix-M), Galina AnAnYInA, President of National art collection center MARKE T Tatyana MunTIAn, Senior researcher of «Moscow Kremlin» museum. Claudio PAGAnI, Art-expert, Baselworld Panel member (Italy). Fyodor Poludenniy, Deputy general director, «Estet» Jewellery house Irina SLESAREvA, Managing editor, Jewellery Review magazine (Art-director of «Russian line»). Gedimin YABLOnSkY, An artist, permanent curator of AMBERIF Design Awards (Poland) G. Yablonski noted a high level of execution of competitive works as well as a particular aesthetic existing in Russia, a system of values, which is very attractive on the background of post-modernism that is popular in Europe now, when many artists do not seek to create anything really beautiful: «I would like especially to note the necklace «Ariadna» as a model of modern «clean» design. I can easily imagine this thing in an exhibit at the exhibition of contemporary art. If we talk about the decorations, which I let us say would have bought in the store with my pleasure, it is the most of all the rings «Florence» and «Russian winter». I am sorry that these works have not become the laureates. I noticed that Russian jewelers impressed with the style of modern historicism. To do a good historicism, one has to possess the skill of a very high level. «The elephant of Maharajah» is an excellent example of modern historicism, it is obvious that the author knows this style well and can work in it. The ring «Alexandrite» is not a clear historicism, but the game into the modern traditionalism. In the simple ring at first glance there is one nuance of the fantasy-cut stone. The same can be said about the necklace «The endless knot of happiness» which is a pure geometry and a very elegant design. I am sure that Russian artists need to develop the world artistic space, to participate in the international professional dialogue. If Russians would appear at the international contests as often as possible, the contests themselves would become more interesting». SRRING, 2 0 1 3 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 5


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REPORT MARKE T ring «The Australian night» by Stanislav Drokin, necklace «The Elephant of Maharaja» (TM Gevorgian), set «Butterfly» of Ilgiz Fazulzyanov. In «Golden series» nomination ring «The fountain of Bakhchisarai by Elena Skvortsova, ring «Saturn» of company «Casting house», set «Oriental sweets» (Finix-M), jewelry collection «Yakutsk land gift» (Sakha Тааs) were marked. The collection «Crystal» (TM «Ringo» from Ekaterinburg) was awarded by a unanimous decision of the jury Grand Prix. According the proposal of the jury Chairman Igor Lobortas his colleagues established the Grand Prix in «Exclusive» nomination too – for the ring «The secret of a first drop» («Estet», Moscow). On the background of the undoubted merits of the things the decisive argument was the theme: Swan form is one of the symbols of Russia. «It is impossible not to recognize the obvious thing that today the profession of jeweler requires not only a striving for perfection and beauty from an artist, but also a genuine interest in the development of the artistic process, the ability to cooperate and be open to everything new that is happening in the world and in the modern art», - I. Lobortas stressed in his speech at the ceremony. I. Lobortas: “It is impossible not to recognize the obvious thing that today the profession of jeweler requires not only a striving for perfection and beauty from an artist, but also a genuine interest in the development of the artistic process”. «« “Bullfinches” pendant was presented at the exposition of “Russian Line 2012”finalists. 6 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 3


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REPO R T «« The chairman of the organization committee of “Russian Line” Alexey ShcheRbinA congratulates the competition winner ilgiz FAzulzyAnov:”I am positive that the judges of the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2013 will support us, and the “Butterflies” set will be the finest example of the Russian design on the international scene”. MARKE T the competition organizers managed to get masterpieces of the artists from different parts of russia in one place on the same day. SRRING, 2 0 1 3 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 7


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REPORT «« Tribute to the memory of the contribution of many scientists and Space Conquerors. Tribute to great idea of Space Art, that have been gathering hearts and minds of mankind through many generations. MARKE T «« Ring «Secret of the First Drop» eSTeT (MoScow) GRAnd PRix The ring in a swan shape as one of the symbols of Russia – this theme was a deciding argument for the judges of the competition. Ring «Vostok-1» JewelleRy STudio dhARA (МоScow) The ring “Swan Princess” by Igor Lobortas is in the Guinness Book of Records due to the record number of diamonds (2525 stones). «ExclusivE. HigH jEwElry art» nomination Ring «Alexandrite» AlexAndeR SMiRnov (МоScow) ring is based on the «« The design of thethe jewellery fashion. modern trends of Ring «Australian night» STAniSlAv dRokin (kiev, ukRAine) The whole world is colorful! Nature with its bright palette harmoniously brings together incompatible colors and shades. The Australian opal is a stone that reproduces bright colors of the rainbow created by nature itself. The author’s main idea is to highlight the play of opal through the colors of the gemstones. Ring JewelleRy houSe (ekATeRinbuRG) SPRING, 2 0 1 3 8 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y


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REPO R T MARKE T Set chiRineli (MoScow) Pendant GevoRGiAn (MoScow) necklace «Ariadna» eSTeT (MoScow) «ExclusivE. HigH jEwElry art» nomination Pendant GevoRGiAn (MoScow) Ring eSTeT (MoScow) necklace «Maharajah Elephant» GevoRGiAn (MoScow) SRRING, 2 0 1 3 P RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 9


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REPORT «ExclusivE. HigH jEwElry art» nomination «« Set «Endless knot of happiness» Finix-M (ekATeRinbuRG) This jewelry suite is entirely handmade. It consists of three items. An exquisite collection of South Sea pearls of natural chocolate color. (naturally cultured pearls, Tahiti). The second level of the pendent iside is also covered with diamonds, which gives the effect of depth and additional splendor not only to the necklace, but to the headset as a whole. This suite has a special meaning for its owner. Item has an infinite knot of bliss in its core, it is one of the eight auspicious symbols of Tibetan Buddhism. Infinite knot symbolizes the desire to know the secret of immortality, eternal youth and beauty. As this knot does not have an end, so this symbol represents the total acquisition of Immeasurable Dignity and Five kinds of primary wisdom. In addition, this element symbolizes the interdependence of all living things and phenomena in the Universe. Infinite Knot or Knot of Bliss gives its owner balance of energy, which is essential in every life. And also it gives the ability to understand the cause and effect of our actions. MARKE T Pendant «Royal regatta» euGeniA buRuAkovA (khARkov) Ring JewelleRy houSe (ekATeRinbuRG) Ring euGeniA buRuAkovA (khARkov) Errings «Russian beauty» uRAn SAkhA (yAkuTSk) 10 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 3


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REPO R T necklace «Island» JewelleRy houSe (ekATeRinbuRG) «The Crystal» Collection RinGo (ekATeRinbuRG) GRAnd PRix MARKE T «goldEn sEriEs» nomination Ring «The fountain of Bakhchisarai» elenA SkvoRTSovA (SiMPheRoPol, ukRAine) Ring «Lakshmi» eSTeT (MoScow) Set «The Oriental sweets» Finix-M (ekATeRinbuRG) R I N G , 2 0 1 3 SR RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 11


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REPORT The masterpiece was made according to the traditions of the indegineous people and demonstrates their main ethnic concepts regarding our world. The spherical pendant shape is the sign of the Universe, and 8 diamonds mean Gods: the heaven, the sun, wind, forest, water, fire, the earth, and Tanara (head of the Upper world). There are non-traditional cutting diamonds in this piece and they are full of the Yakutsk land energy, produced out of the permafrost. The masterpiece will be a powerful amulet for its owner. MARKE T Ring «Saturn» cASTinG houSe (MoScow) «goldEn sEriEs» nomination Set «Sparks of wave» Finix-M (ekATeRinbuRG) Ring «Russian Winter» cASTinG houSe (MoScow) ) Ring «Florence» AlMAz-holdinG (MoScow) 12 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 3 «« Pendant «Yakutsk Land Gift» SAkhA ТааS Magnifier SonA iMPex (MoScow)


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REPO R T jEwEllEry dEsign ExcEllEncE award-2013 MARKE T Set «Butterfly» ilGiz FAzulzyAnov (МоScow) foto: ©HKtDC SRRING, 2 0 1 3 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 13



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