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spain the kingdom of spain is the second largest and most southern country in europe separated from western europe by the pyrenean mountains on the border with france it forms with portugal the iberian peninsula in the east and the south bordering on the mediterranean sea in the west on the atlantic ocean and in the north on the bay of biscay spain is a country that possesses a magnificent mix of art culture and architecture it has a lot of beautiful cities and towns that vary in culture language climate and customs since 1975 when democracy was reinstalled under the symbolic reign of king juan carlos the historically grown regions nationality s and cultures have become seventeen autonomous regions we concentrate on the most southern region of spain andalucia and more specific on the county of antequera.

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history of andalucia where the mediterranean meets the atlantic and only a narrow stretch of water divides europe from africa andalucia has been on the forefront of spanish history from prehistoric times onward neanderthal man is known to have lived on the rock of gibraltar 50.000 years ago it is one of those places in the world that has been deeply influenced by numerous foreign invasions all leaving their marks it makes andalucia a very exotic exciting place to visit bursting with history and rich in culture it s a land with achingly beautiful landscapes stunning seascapes wonderful beaches all along the 900 km coastline majestic mountains the best conserved flora and fauna with many species extinguished in the rest of europe numerous tempting golf courses colourful images famous white towns flamenco songs and dances delicious original food a divine climate and a friendly hospitable likeable people it s a unique place where east meets west in an exotic melting pot of jewish gypsy moorish and christian cultures around 8.000 bc north african tribes nowadays know as iberians crossed the street of gibraltar and settled throughout the region to farm the land the bronze age started around 2.500 bc and by 1.100 bc a flourishing culture arose in western andalucia rich in agriculture and metals that s when the phoneticians from what we now know as lebanon came to these shores with their perfumes ivory jewellery wine oil and textile to trade them for silver and bronze they settled themselves along andalucia s extensive coastline and established a chain of trading posts and strongly influenced the way of live of the native iberians.

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the phoneticians were followed by the celts around 800 bc and by 700 bc the legendary tartessus culture was flourishing in andalucia the greek came a century later and around 500 bc the carthaginians from what we nowadays know as tunisia had taken over reign of southern spain the carthaginians came into conflict with the next new mediterranean power the romans by 206 bc the romans invaded spain crushed the resistance of the native iberians and pushed the carthaginians out andalucia was transformed into one of the wealthiest and most civilised areas of the roman empire and remained so for 700 years the south of spain is littered with the remnants of roman civilisation ­ aqueducts temples theatres amphitheatres baths ­ and many of the more prominent ruins are open to the public and well worth a visit the spanish language is basically roman latin 2000 years on and around 300 ad they brought christianity to spain after the collapse of the roman empire andalucia endured devastating successive invasive waves of barbarian tribes from northern europe and by 476 ad the germanic visigoths completed their conquest of spain this barbarian war-loving people had little culture of their own and reigned chaotically for almost two centuries the byzantine took their place in 571 ad a weakened spain was invaded by the moors in the 8 th century and the region became the mighty kingdom al-andalus the heartland of this moorish kingdom is what we now know as andalucia it was a territory than that included most of spain the muslims built beautiful palaces mosques gardens bustling markets public bathhouses and opened universities in the main cities during eight centuries the christians in the remaining northern part of spain fought many times against the moors to reclaim their country but it wasn t until queen isabella of castille and king ferdinand of aragon married and united both their kingdoms that they were finally able to expel the moors and reunite spain in 1492 the last moorish bastion to fall was the kingdom of granada in october of the same year columbus discovered the new world and this brought great wealth again to the andalucian ports from which spain traded with the americas strong influence of the renaissance and baroque culture at the time was translated into cathedrals churches palaces public buildings and many new squares.

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much of the wealth however was spent on the wars waged by the spanish monarchy against the protestant countries in northern europe and the ottoman turks in the mediterranean and as the flow of richness decreased andalucia generally suffered as spain sank into economic decline the spanish war of succession in the early 18 th century and the napoleonic invasion and the ensuing spanish war of independence one hundred years later ravaged the region in the mid nineteenth century spain experiences a time of social tensions and upcoming revolutionary ideas this results in the first republic ­ a federal grouping of seventeen states ­ but within a year the monarchy is restored during this episode andalucia was divided into the present eight provinces rural andalucia was a hotbed of anarchist unrest in the first half of the twentieth century social and political turbulence rages in 1913 blas infante the father of andalucia began his fight for an independent andalucia opposition to king alfonso xiii culminated in the deposition of the monarchy and the second republic in 1931 in 1936 spain suffers the devastations of a civil war after general franco and his nationalist movement had overthrown the republic since the end of the civil war in 1939 victorious franco rules oppressive dictatorial regime in spain until his death in 1975 democracy was restored under the symbolic monarchy of king juan carlos i spanish government was decentralised and andalucia became an autonomous region in 1982 with its own regional administration the junta de andalucia assembly of andalucia

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the province of malaga we are starting to narrow down our focus for this book one of the eight provinces of andalucia that were established in 1833 is the province of malaga the province of malaga has eight counties of which the costa del sol stretches along the 150 km long coast of west of malaga and the costa del sol occidental county and is one of spain s most popular tourist destinations it s wonderful mild climate makes it possible to enjoy an abundance of golden sandy beaches flanked by beautiful and varied mountainous landscapes and a wide variety of outdoor activities all through the year in the early part of the last century a few wealthy people in search of something different came to these beaches in the second half of the 20th century the costa del sol developed into an international tourism resort with the arrival of mass tourism the coast began to change from a fishing and farming-based rural community to what it is today the world-famous costa del sol in the past 25 years the costa del sol has been developed into the costa del golf as well andalucia counts 72 golf courses of which 45 are in the province of malaga and the majority along the coast and if you like the hustle and bustle of what has been created to accommodate the many millions of tourists that crowd this coast nowadays you will probably enjoy your stay the golf courses are splendid but pricey as well and it is non-stop big city life for the most part outside the courses that has little to offer on what makes andalucia so special however just half an hours drive from the capital malaga and it s airport by highway a45 you find yourself in antequera in the centre of the county that bears it s name we have arrived at the focus point of this book.

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comarca de antequera most guidebooks on andalucia focus on the world famous cities of seville granada cordoba and malaga and those are beautiful places to visit but comfortably in the middle and within easy reach of them all is antequera it is the geographical heart of andalucia all roads come together here and the high speed ave train stops in the city as well on its way from malaga to madrid visiting this historical andalucían town is a journey almost 5,000 years back in time although far less known as the mentioned cities antequera is equally worth a visit with its beautiful churches monasteries and historic buildings it contains 75 of the historic and cultural heritage properties in the whole of the province of malaga in its municipality the added advantage this relative lack of fame implicates is that its essential andalucian charm has not been trampled by mass tourism coach parties and endless souvenir shops malaga airport agp is the most commonly used destination for flying to the costa del sol although granada has an airport grx as well and plans to built an international airport in antequera are well under way but having arrived in malaga you drive inland from malaga city comfortably on the highway a45 through the beautiful montes de malaga on your way you will see one of the last big black bulls on the top of a mountain near the village of casabermeja these signs called toro osborne were originally put up to promote osborne sherry although they have become an intrinsic and world famous part of the andalucian sky line only a few have survived today not long after this landmark you leave the mountains behind and the vega or plain of antequera opens up after the rough mountains it offers a wonderful sight of wide flat land like a tapestry in greens or ochre depending on the season sprinkled with little white farmhouses.

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as you get closer to antequera you are getting a good view of la peña de los enamorados or lovers leap it s like a giant face in rock lying there we will get back to the legend of a doomed romance later antequera sits on the edge of the 540 metre high plain the vega with rugged mountainous territory to the east and south it is an attractive typical medieval market town whitewashed buildings topped with red roofs very andalucian the many church spires poking up amid them with a well preserved centre and a couple of outstanding natural sites of great interest the valleys below the town have andalucia s most fertile soil irrigated by de guadalhorce river currently this area is a leading producer of asparagus cereals and olives in summer sunflowers turn the fields into a sea of yellow and above the city dominate the remains of the alcazaba a hilltop moorish castle however beautiful the initial view it does not reveal the real treasure of monumental sites contained in antequera town where every corner reverberates with thousands of years old mediterranean culture forged by all the western civilisations this is the moment when you know you have reached the real andalucia an entirely different world from the coast history of antequera it is believed that from 3.000 bc onwards this area was always populated and over time developed into a busy market town antequera derived from the roman name for the town antikaria and the moorish name for what they turned into a fortificated city medina antaqira the border defends for granada its geographic location is in the centre of andalucia situated on a rock buttress north of malaga at a crossroads between the natural routes from malaga to cordoba and seville to granada everybody on his way through andalucia passed through antequra.

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it is fascinating to be able to follow the 5.000 year time line in the city and its surroundings the different cultures that ruled the town over time the first settlers in this region left archaeological testimony of immense importance the dolmens of viera menga and romeral gigantic burial structures erected in the bronze age roman culture shows its existence through a profusion of bathhouses villas sculptures ceramics mosaics column shafts and capitals and the moorish castle gothic churches renaissance fountains and baroque bell towers speak for their period of cultural domination antequera was granted several royal favours after the moors were defeated and expelled the city began to experience growth that would arrive at its peak in the second half of the sixteenth century and continuing until the eighteenth century during the extravagant baroque period between 1.600 and 1.750 ad many private palaces were built as well as 32 churches and convents it sculpted the presence appearance of this historic centre many noblemen and aristocrats lived in the town and even today many wealthy people have their residence here an epidemic of yellow fever and the napoleonic invasion decimated the population of the town at the beginning of the nineteenth century recovering from these bad times a vigorous middle class appeared supported by a thriving textile industry that gave new life to its economy and society this powerful industrial sector was to succumb in the twentieth century after democracy was restored in spain and a good transportation and communications network with the rest of andalucia developed antequera once again is a thriving city with it cultural heritance to be enjoyed sights in and around antequera

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12 palacio del marquÉs de las escalonias palace of the marquis of escalonias calle de las pasillas 27 this beautiful palace dates from the early seventeeth century the exterior of the building is a very good example of the andalucian framework-facade architecture two principal floors and a spacious loft determine the horizontal frame and originally five sections marked the vertical frame later two more sections were added either side outstanding is the entrance in the middle which is a prime example of the mannerism-style used in antequera after going through a impressive wrought-iron gate you access the interior through a long hallway decorated with simple handcrafting the courtyard which is unique within the local architecture features a single gallery with lodges above that are open to a romantic garden that was remodelled at the beginning of the century at the moment that i am writing this july 1st 2010 the palace is for sale for 3.000.000

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16 palacio de nÁjera museo municipal municipal museum palace of nájera plaza coso viejo s/n ­ tel 952 70 40 21 this ducal palace was build in the beginning of the eighteenth century by the family eslava y trujillo they incorporated the existing fifteenth century ground and main floors facade from an earlier building on the plot in the new building in the second half of that century the baroque watchtower and the attic were added the tower was designed by architect nicolás mejías antequera in the typical antequeran clock tower style popular since the sixteenth century and renowned for the skilled use of the technique of cut brick and daring cornices it is one of the most beautiful towers to be found in an andalucian palace all in all it resulted in an striking baroque building with two clearly defined architectural styles more architectural features are to be admired inside the building through the hallway you enter an secluded courtyard twelve tuscan columns on which rest brick arches form a gallery surrounding the open square inside the staircase is of stunning magnificence as well with double square and round sections topped by a dome decorated with intricate plasterwork in such a stunning context it is hard for what is exhibited to compete the museum is well worth a visit though as it will give you a good insight into the archeological artistic and ethnological history and culture of the antequeran area it is laid out over the rooms open to the courtyard on the ground floor the staircase the upper galleries and several rooms upstairs the museum has a collection of interesting artifacts on display they range from ancient prehistoric remains to contemporary art goldsmith work paintings from the antequeran school and a selection of the work of native antequeran painter cristóbal toral there is an range of religious and sacred paintings objects crosses and vestments dating from

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the sixteenth century to today some of the collection is used in the santa semana processions the most important religious celebration in spain in the week before easter on the ground floor the most important piece to be seen is the efebo de antequera a first century ad livesize hollow bronze of a naked young man with outstretched arms and leafy garlands in his hair efebo stems from the greek word ephebe meaning a young man age 18 to 20 who has reached manhood and is undergoing military training this ephebe might well be ganymede cup bearer to the gods a farmer found it while working his fields in 1955 when made public in 1963 it caused sensation only six of these statutes have been found in europe and the antequeran one is the most perfect of them it is the most important find of roman art in spain another top piece is a life-like carving in wood of st francis of assisi by pedro de mena a seventeenth century andalucian master opening hours tuesday to friday saturday sunday 10.00 ­ 13.30 and 16.30 ­ 18.30 10.00 ­ 13.30 11.00 13.30

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20 palacio de los marqueses de la peÑa de los enamorados palace of the marquis of la peÑa de los enamorados calle carrera 2 ­ tel 952841244 one of the best examples of antequeran architecture this striking palace with its moorish-andalucian façade resembles castellan palaces due to the two watch towers or torres miradores on either side the building the distinct framework-façade local architecture is prominent incorporated and the entrance is in the manneriststyle so favoured at the time two floors and an attic which was added recently make the horizontal frame seven blocks with windows the vertical lines grilles for the main floor windows and balconies on the first floor that s how the antequeran nobility liked their houses to be it was the residence of the rojas family whose distant ancestor was martin rojas manrique a nobleman who in the fifteenth century participated in the conquest of the city in the mid-seventeenth century the vi señor de la peña de los enamorados was awarded the title of marquis the name of the palace and the marquis have a direct connection with the romantic legend of tazgona and tello the romeo and juliet of antequera it was built in the second half of the sixteenth century but over time its appearance changed considerably due to modifications additions and restoration a horrific fire during the civil war destroyed the original interior completely the courtyard is on three sides adorned with arched galleries made of tuscan columns of red torcal limestone with brick arches spanning them five on each side today this beautiful place houses the college of the pp carmelites.

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32 casa del baron de sabasona house of baron de sabasona calle calzada s/n this palatial house was build for the tejada family barons of sabasona in the first part of the eighteenth century nowadays it houses the public school romero robledo it is one of the most original examples of the fachada-armazón or framework-façade that are so characteristic for this town the front of the house is build in brick except for the entrance section that has been constructed in black and white stone a reference to the mannerist style fashionable at the time of its construction the original balustrades except the one in the centre were renewed in the nineteenth century and the ones on the main floor were replaced by large grilles the beautiful baroque courtyard to the left side of the house is exemplary for antequera square with on each side a triple arcade on tuscan columns from red and black stone a very unusual feature in antequeran architecture above which brick arches and walls opening up to balconies with iron bannisters and decorated with terracotta floral details noteworthy as well is the staircase covered with an elliptical dome decorated with scalloped plasterwork with its original element the twin columns supporting the arches of the landing only the courtyard can be visited during school hours.

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33 casa de los colarte casa museo de la diputaciÓn provincial provincial council house-museum los colarte calle maderuelo 14 ­ tel 952 840 561 the construction of this early eighteenth century manor house was initiated by don juan manuel colarte y lila a rich gentleman from french origin born in cadiz its design is in a unique neo-islamic fashion as don juan died before the mansion was finished his heirs took it upon them to complete it this probably explains the dualistic nature of the building with its fachada-armazón or framework-façade with four axles so typical for this area the lower section of the house is build with carved red torcal limestone with a front door in specific local fashion framed with two tuscan columns to the right side of the building the upper part however is in complete contrast to this in its solid and heavy appearance through a long hallway guarded by a nineteenth century gate we are confronted with the most interesting part of the whole interior architecture its rectangular staircase with two flights of stairs going in opposite directions separated by an iron railing it has a vault richly decorated with polychrome plasterwork over time the house attained its impressive splendour through a string of occupants amassing a wealth of art objects important religious objects and a rich collection of paintings pieces of ivory ebony and silver decorative art such as eighteenth century vases and pots ceramic dishes clocks and sculptures in alabaster and grained marble crystal lamps and gilded woodwork the interior is decorated with rustic wood carved furniture an assortment of leather and wood trunks beautiful lacquered chairs upholstered with silk exquisite glass cabinets the original dining room and bedroom units which give us an insight of the life style and habits of long-gone times when it became difficult for the last owners to preserve this heritage the provincial council stepped in and purchased the house with everything in it and turned it into a house-museum sometimes it is used to accommodate important guests of the council opening hours monday to friday -09.00 ­ 14.00

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36 palacio del marquÉs de villadarias palace of the marquis of villadarias calle lucena this monumental house with three stories in red torcal limestone was build as a palace for the ii marquis de villadarias it s regarded to be the most ambitious construction of this kind that arose in antequera work on the palace started in 1711 the importance of the building is demonstrated in its unusual proportions within antequeran palace architecture three horizontal main frames with six vertical sections the entrance section demonstrates what the palace used to look like before the façade was rebuild with little success in the nineteenth century the richly decorated baroque doorway coming out of the building with four pedestalled tuscan columns and enriched with ornate plasterwork of fleurs de lis and flowers capitals balconies scrolls and pyramids going up three stories tells the tale of what it once was fortunately the interior of the palace has survived too drastic renovations and echoes the magnificence and splendour of the entrance the courtyard present in every palace in antequera is square and encircled by twelve tuscan columns of red torcal limestone where upon brick arches rest an impressive feature is the staircase in the left side of the house rectangular and spanned with an elliptical dome with scalloped plasterwork popular at and characteristic for the seventeenth century.

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