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foundation for the protection and valorization of quality agri-food products www.qualivita.it

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mariann fischer boel european commissioner for agriculture and rural development in recent months food quality in the eu has really fought its way into the newspaper headlines in fact this has not been such a hard fight the eu arguably has the world s strongest gastronomic tradition food is a great passion for many europeans and our agri-food sector s exports bring in around 70 billion a year even this impressive number excludes the huge contribution which european cooking makes to our tourist trade but food quality has been an especially hot topic because of moves to overhaul the eu s policy on agricultural product quality in a world of fierce global competition and pressure on margins our farmers and food producers need to be in a position to get the best possible returns on all the qualities which distinguish their products policy must help them both to deliver quality and to make customers aware of it this is why in october 2008 the european commission launched a wide consultation on quality policy which has thrown up many valuable ideas for improvements within that debate the concept of quality is a garden with many different flowers nevertheless it is clear that protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications are among the prize exhibits in that garden it is not for nothing that well over 800 pdos and pgis have been registered excluding wines and spirits and i personally have a strong commitment to improving these longstanding quality schemes the qualigeo atlas will give excellent support to the second mission of quality policy helping customers current or future ­ to recognise quality when they see it the map of european food and drink is as richly varied as that of the european landscape itself even for the most experienced traveller in the world of gastronomy the qualigeo atlas will help to fill in some of the rich details on that map i am sure that many pleasant hours of reading and tasting lie ahead for anyone who lays his or her hands on this book!

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luca zaia minister of agricultural food and forestry policies the agri-food sector in our country is one of the visiting cards of the made in italy in the world a reason of pride also for europe italy is the leader of certified and protected origin products pdo pgi and tsg to which this atlas is dedicated products that are appreciated and recognized at an international level able to delight the consumers with inimitable tastes and fragrances and to give absolute guarantees of accountability and food safety behind each product there is the history the identity and tradition of our territories which has always represented the heartbeat of our agriculture of excellence for this ministry protecting the products identities constitutes one of the pillars of the government action the basis for the development of a competitive agriculture this is the europe we want the europe of differences of histories of cultures and agricultures which created today s civilization and which protects it form the homologating amalgamation of tastes which risks being a by-product of globalization this atlas easy to consult rich in details curiosities tools to orientate in a more and more open and global market and therefore more complex will contribute to keeping the memory alive to reach out to a greater and greater portion of the population those who are just curious or people having a keen interest in good food the consumption of quality agri-food products to inform the consumers all over the world and make them aware those who are today more and more interested in what is put in front of them on the table in healthy eating and in the pleasure to rediscover in the global era the authentic flavour of typical products of the territories the heart of the italian agriculture.

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paolo de castro qualivita foundation chairman committee on agriculture and rural development european parliament products are often true catalysts for the development of the rural areas an identity trait often so strong so as to make some products genuine ambassadors of the area of origin a richness and an exceptionally distinctive heritage unique and unrepeatable all these factors make quality and promotion of typical products one of the pillars of a new generation of agricultural policies at a european level within this pillar belongs the consultation process which began with the presentation of the green paper on quality from which the recent communication on quality policy of the european commission stems a path which should lead on one hand to the reinforcing of the producers juridical protection and on the other to an increased level of information for the consumers a series of objectives which will contribute to define one of the relevant characteristics both on an economic and social profile of the european agricultural policies the orientation towards quality is extremely important for europe and plays a significant part in the founding principles of the future european agricultural policy it is a cornerstone of the european effort for agricultural support a place where the interests of the farmers and the consumers aspirations meet from this point of view the volume offers a complete and extremely detailed overview of about 900 agrifood certified products under eu norms and the description of some products with geographical indication which are produced beyond european borders a valuable work the fruit of two intense years of effort which saw the commitment of 30 researchers of different nationalities and the collaboration of institutions and certifying bodies of different eu countries it is a tool which can prove to be extremely useful both in reinforcing the identity of the agricultural and rural world and in achieving the objective of increasing the knowledge and information available for consumers a work which adds value and exalts the wealth of knowledge and tools which have been developed in these years by the qualivita foundation on the subject of typical products the subject of the quality of gastronomic products has become one of extraordinary importance for modern society a wide subject which with time has become enriched with new aspects following the rapid evolution of the consumer s understanding and his increased awareness and interest not only in the material content which accompanies the gastronomic products but also the intangible ones they are often closely linked and in some cases make a mark on the product which is a source formal and informal of guarantees both from an ethical point of view and of food safety in this field the characterizing capacity which during the years has been assured by the pdo pgi and tsg products has progressively grown meeting an increasing array of needs for the consumer which are more and more articulated more and more with a connotation of hedonistic elements which connect the consumer to the land to its tradition to its specificities of production of landscape and culture therefore the great success of these products has not only been its commercial success but also a not insignificant value to the society and the region the typical

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luigi verrini qualivita foundation due to the publication of the atlas of italian pdo pgi and tsg agri-food products the qualivita foundation is ready today to make a new step forward towards europe with the european atlas unique in its genre a work which one would not be exaggerating if one called it encyclopedic a complex compendium of data and information on about 850 certified products of the european union nothing the particular difficulty which we hope is simply due to the particular conditions in which we find the economy of the old continent as well as the global one we are nevertheless moderately faithful that the prevailing anticyclical nature of the agri-food sector can be efficient at taking the sting out of the crisis following this logic our foundation aims to preserve and promote with growing determination the quality culture of specialization and of the competencies of the agri-food production chain engaged in producing geographical indication products to raise the efficiency accountability transparency and distinctiveness of these precious productive structures marketing has confirmed that when the quality of the agri-food products is promoted and understood it becomes an increasingly competitive factor against the backdrop of growing globalization where the siege of sophistication and of the imitations is more and more prevalent the consumer increases his attention to these insidious deceptions consenting to those products which are the holders of clear signs like pdo and pgi like brands with an esteemed reputation able to give authentic guarantees of trustworthiness this is the main trajectory which the eu legislators have clearly followed already with regulation 2081/1992 and successively repealed with the recent regulation 510/2006 all these were implemented with the declared objective to answer these consumer expectations and to protect and preserve that vast and exclusive heritage of agri-food specialties which the different countries of the eu hold and which are true cultural assets if the success in the literary world is born from the selective flow of facts and sentiments relative to the protagonists especially if it occurs in fantastic places and is illustrated by the skillful choosing of words the same result can originate from the almost artistic distillation of the culture of enogastronomic quality above all when it is proposed with the harmonic combination of prestigious locations together with colours aromas flavours and all those qualitative and distinctive characteristics belonging to the agri-food specialties of a safe and documented geographical location enriched by the creativity of the gastronomic connoisseurs which often know how to make consumers be aware of and understand the more exclusive and inimitable elements which form a highly personalized identity like a sort of fingerprint of these specialties after four years of growing experience

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qualigeo atlas european and non-european pdo pgi tsg agri-food products author mauro rosati

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european and non-european pdo pgi tsg agri-food products qualigeo atlas © author mauro rosati www.maurorosati.it working group ·supervisor and scientific coordinator mauro rosati ·working group coordinators nicoletta lucia laura scichilone ·editorial staff eleonora annunziata silvia bandini elisa baria roxana bota francesca cavallaro maria rita cavarra laura cinirei elena conti giuseppina crisponi iris friscira giacomo guerrini maria guidoni ioannis klimatariotis regina matarese delphine meudic nicola natili marilena pallai adriano palma elisa pinto silvia skiftas giovanni sogari raffaele sozzi ana marlene van strate arianna vannini ·graphic design and project comanche francesco basile irene bimbi niccolò bindi ·translation service studio mvm milano et al © 2009 fondazione qualivita this book is published with the contribution of acknowledgements the qualivita foundation thanks all those who collaborated in this project the support given by the associations of producers the certification authorities and the industry companies was essential as well as the help of all those who gave us information and allowed the use of their photographic material special thanks to the departments of national authorities of the member countries for agri-food pdo pgi and tsg products and to the italian ministry of agricultural food and forestry policies every effort was made to improve the atlas maps and to make them reliable complete and updated please let us know any changes of names and changes relating the production area to enable us the use of the same standards in the next atlas issue every effort was made to find the copyright owners please inform the publishing house about any involuntary oversights to add them in the next issue of this book info@qualivita.it no part of this publication may be reproduced or trasmitted in any form or by any means electronic or mechanical including photocopy recording or any other information storage and retrieval system without prior permission in writing from the publisher disclaimers regarding the contents of the atlas all the contents of the product cards and the maps present in this atlas were produced based on the official documentation currently available however given that these sources are subject to amendments and changes both at a national and a european level some contents of the atlas might contain incomplete information or may not reflect possible changes made after the editing of this book the information is provided as such and without any explicit or tacit guarantee of any kind we apologize for and invite the readers to alert us to any changes we should make using the special form in the following web site www.qualigeo.eu or e-mail us at info@qualivita.it when using the maps it must be kept in mind that the production areas for the individual products have been drawn up by looking at the regions in which the production of the same product takes place even if it is produced only partially this is to make the map more comprehensible for an international audience original publication title qualigeo atlas release date siena 2009 published by fondazione qualivita piazza matteotti 30 cap 53100 siena italy www.qualivita.it first published in siena in 2009 editing completed on the 30th june 2009 printed in august 2009 by nova arti grafiche signa fi isbn 978-88-96530-00-9 with the support of international distribution fondazione qualivita piazza matteotti 30 53100 siena tel +39 0577 202545 fax +39 0577 202562 www.qualivita.it info@qualivita.it distribution in italy il sole 24ore business media srl via g patecchio 2 20141 milano www.agricoltura24.com © all rights are reserved to qualivita foundation distribution in spain eumedia s.a www.eumedia.es ministerio de medio ambiente medio rural y marino centro de publicaciones www.marm.es mundi prensa libros s.a www.mundiprensa.com © all qualivita brands are registered trademark and they are qualivita foundation s property

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summary introduction ·world wide quality by mauro rosati ·understanding agri-food products quality ·how to read the atlas 19 22 25 meat-based products cartography ·bresaola della valtellina pgi ·capocollo di calabria pdo ·coppa piacentina pdo ·cotechino modena pgi ·culatello di zibello pdo ·lardo di colonnata pgi ·mortadella bologna pgi ·pancetta di calabria pdo ·pancetta piacentina pdo ·prosciutto di carpegna pdo ·prosciutto di modena pdo ·prosciutto di norcia pgi ·prosciutto di parma pdo ·prosciutto di san daniele pdo ·prosciutto toscano pdo ·prosciutto veneto berico-euganeo pdo ·salame brianza pdo ·salame cremona pgi ·salame di varzi pdo ·salame d oca di mortara pgi ·salame piacentino pdo ·salame s angelo pgi ·salamini italiani alla cacciatora pdo ·salsiccia di calabria pdo ·soppressata di calabria pdo ·soprèssa vicentina pdo ·speck dell alto adige pgi ·vallèe d aoste jambon de bosses pdo ·valle d aosta lard d arnad pdo ·zampone modena pgi 72 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 qualigeo atlas italy european and non-european pdo pgi tsg agri-food products cheeses cartography ·asiago pdo ·bitto pdo ·bra pdo ·caciocavallo silano pdo ·canestrato pugliese pdo ·casatella trevigiana pdo ·casciotta d urbino pdo ·castelmagno pdo ·fiore sardo pdo ·fontina pdo ·formai de mut dell alta valle brembana pdo ·gorgonzola pdo ·grana padano pdo ·montasio pdo ·monte veronese pdo ·mozzarella tsg ·mozzarella di bufala campana pdo ·murazzano pdo ·parmigiano-reggiano pdo ·pecorino di filiano pdo ·pecorino romano pdo ·pecorino sardo pdo ·pecorino siciliano pdo ·pecorino toscano pdo ·provolone valpadana pdo ·quartirolo lombardo pdo ·ragusano pdo ·raschera pdo ·robiola di roccaverano pdo ·spressa delle giudicarie pdo ·stelvio pdo ·taleggio pdo ·toma piemontese pdo ·valle d aosta fromadzo pdo ·valtellina casera pdo 34 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 oil and fats/olive oil cartography 104 ·olio extravergine di oliva alto crotonese pdo 106 ·olio extravergine di oliva aprutino pescarese pdo 107 ·olio extravergine di oliva brisighella pdo 108 ·olio extravergine di oliva bruzio pdo 109 ·olio extravergine di oliva canino pdo 110 ·olio extravergine di oliva cartoceto pdo 111 ·olio extravergine di oliva chianti classico pdo 112 ·olio extravergine di oliva cilento pdo 113 ·olio extravergine di oliva collina di brindisi pdo 114 ·olio extravergine di oliva colline di romagna pdo 115 ·olio extravergine di oliva colline salernitane pdo 116 ·olio extravergine di oliva colline teatine pdo 117 ·olio extravergine di oliva dauno pdo 118 ·olio extravergine di oliva garda pdo 119 ·olio extravergine di oliva laghi lombardi pdo 120 ·olio extravergine di oliva lametia pdo 121 ·olio extravergine di oliva lucca pdo 122 ·olio extravergine di oliva molise pdo 123 ·olio extravergine di oliva monte etna pdo 124 ·olio extravergine di oliva monti iblei pdo 125 ·olio extravergine di oliva penisola sorrentina pdo 126 ·olio extravergine di oliva pretuziano delle colline teramane pdo 127 ·olio extravergine di oliva riviera ligure pdo 128 ·olio extravergine di oliva sabina pdo 129 ·olio extravergine di oliva sardegna pdo 130 ·olio extravergine di oliva tergeste pdo 131 ·olio extravergine di oliva terra di bari pdo 132 ·olio extravergine di oliva terra d otranto pdo 133 ·olio extravergine di oliva terre di siena pdo 134 italy summary introduction to italy 33

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