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society of cosmetic chemists south africa president s report january ­ december 2011 message from our president with the global financial turbulence and uncertainty this year has been a tough one for business coschem events have again been excellently attended and supported in spite of stringent cost savings at companies our cosmetic science diploma course was again fully subscribed the education committee ensured that the high standard of tuition was maintained the course is highly regarded by industry and is very valuable in training students on all the aspects relevant to our industry thank you to our educational committee for their dedication and hard work there were fewer lecture evenings this year but the topics and speakers chosen ensured that the lectures were well supported not withstanding economic and traffic difficulties the evenings were still extensively used as networking opportunities the 2012 ifscc congress to be held in sandton is the international cosmetic science event and a major opportunity for coschem to showcase what south africa has to offer it is also an ideal opportunity for many companies and the cosmetics industry as a whole to attend such a high profile congress without spending exorbitant amounts on overseas travel preparation for the event has started in all earnest and is well under way a special thanks to roy gardiner and the steering committee for all the hard work so far the pr committee actively promotes awareness of our society by constantly updating and improving the website and communication efforts they have also done an excellent job marketing the ifscc congress to the industry the seminar committee hosted two highly successful scientific seminars that were very valuable for chemists in the industry annual report january ­ december 2011 1 2

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the theme for the 2011 conference was stepping through the mindfield excellent feedback was received from industry on the quality of the local and international presentations in spite of fears that presenters would want to hold back high quality presentations in order to present next year at the international event congratulations to the scientific committee for the successful conference the gala dinner theme was mexican it was very well attended by industry and the atmosphere was clearly jovial ­ the band the mexican dancers and the fact that attendees dressed up so beautifully contributed to this our social committee was once again active and the events they organised were very enjoyable and well attended they hosted a fun golf day a ladies day themed fun fresh and fabulous and the year end function our cape town chapter hosted a lecture and our natal chapter did very well by hosting three morning lectures an excellent ladies day and a year end function at the barnyard theatre i thank the council and sub-committee members for their dedication their energy and all the hard work to ensure the success of the society it is a pleasure to work with such an experienced team that never loses their drive and passion for the industry develop a passion for learning if you do you will never cease to grow anthony j d angelo walter van pareen president 2011 management committee 2011 the council consists of a management committee plus seven other voting members the management committee under the stewardship of the immediate past president include the president vice-president honorary treasurer honorary secretary and general secretary the management committees objectives for 2011 were to co-ordinate the organisation marketing and administration of the 2012 ifscc congress a nd few of the vital tasks included design and distribution of the 2 announcement finalising the accompanying persons tour website design/updated call for papers set up reviewers zone design sponsorship packs and opened on-line registration management committee members 2011 walter van pareen president/chair of lecture evening committee rohit desai immediate past president/chair of social committee jill gardiner honorary secretary/chair of education committee roy gardiner treasurer/chair of ifscc steering committee bridget macdonald general secretariat wayne van wyk vice president/chair of ifscc scientific committee coschem council 2011 the council members as listed below offer support to the management and ifscc steering committees they participate in various subcommittee activities to ensure that the day-to-day running of the society is administered effectively thank you to the following members for their dedication and support of the society and its activities council members for 2011 gloria ford social committee karen keyter scientific committee juanita kilian chairperson seminar committee gillian kuhn scientific committee rozanne long pr committee kim maccallum education committee darryl mostert social committee lonsdale o donovan social committee belinda van der merwe chairperson pr committee 3 4

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chapter representatives malla pillay natal representative pam ellwood cape town representative 25 august 25 2011 philippe aeby of rahn cosmetics presented a lecture on cosmetic actives for mature skin the lecture was hosted by imcd 5 december 2011 carina malherbe of the department of environmental affairs presented a working session on the compliance to the legislative provisions on bioprospecting the lecture was hosted by department of environmental affairs kzn ladies day th th the 26 august 2011 marked the 4 coschem natal ladies day the ladies that attended were treated to a celebration of spring two charities were supported namely the open door crisis center and the hillside haven in conjunction with i care thora mansfield of the open door crisis center highlighted human trafficking and trauma counselling as well as after care support they provide to everyone be it an hiv person abused child man or woman council members 2011 chapters natal chapter natal chapter committee members 2011 malla pillay chairperson shasheka manichander lucinda ortone the natal chapter had a slow start to the year they held two lectures that were well attended and a ladies day with a breakfast seminar and the year end luncheon held in december we trust that next year will be more successful in terms of the social events and hope to host the first kzn golf tournament in 2012 the following natal functions were hosted 19 july 2011 lonsdale o donavan of quantum colours presented a brief overview of colors and application in the cosmetic pharmaceutical toiletry household and food industries the morning was hosted by carst and walker dr taryn tuner introduced buddy and lilly two adorable kittens to the ladies this was to emphasise the good work done by the hillside haven who take in any abandoned animals dr turner rehabilitates them and where possible finds them a home the ladies were treated to ayrudevic massages and surprise make overs by artist neil ramateur of the reputable houses chanel and givenchy other speakers included dr jain of the ayrudevic wellness center and chantal moreira of the bella donna finishing classes for women between these speakers the ladies received an overview of simple changes we can make in our lives to improve the way we deal with the stresses of being a woman mother colleague and friend r1200 was raised for the hillside haven by raffling off a gorgeous bouquet and three bottles of chanel perfume the monies bought blankets donated to the hillside haven these blankets will be given to i care and in exchange the hillside haven is able to buy supplies 5 6

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bouquet donated by umongo petroleum perfume donated by unichem services another highlight of the day was the fabulous dance and singing performances by hillgrove school funk dance club sponsored by unichem services a sumptuous buffet luncheon brought an end to a day that was as bright and cheerful as the sunflowers that decorated the tables kzn year end luncheon was held on 7 december 2011 at the barnyard theatre in gateway umhlanga members were treated to a welcome snack a two course meal and the highly acclaimed big top rock show which is the sequel to the very popular show the rock circus the show included music aerial acts jugglers and a circus atmosphere scientific committee scientific committee members 2011 wayne van wyk chairperson zelda du plooy luda grobler karen keyter gillian kuhn martin mason lydia nel aubrey parsons liezanne van der walt rose westbrook annual scientific conference stepping through a mindfield 7-8 september 2011 the first day of the annual conference was nothing short of spectacular the vibe from delegates was one of enthusiasm and excitement we ve had talks from mostly south african presenters that were of such a high standard one would think they were at an ifscc congress shani vermeulen from arch personal care products discussed recent developments using plant meristem cultures to harness active ingredients she presented recent research into red rice extract first seen at incosmetics 2011 juanita kilian from croda presented the many benefits of lanolin and showed how the media can misinterpret data and disseminate incorrect information that drastically affects the industry two presenters touched on the topic of natural products and presented ingredients that may help formulators make their claims south africa s own beverley gardner of symrise educated delegates about rising trends in the cosmetic industry showcasing a plethora of products from slimming fragrances to mineral hair care styling products there is definitely some exciting stuff ahead for the industry after the lunch-break more presentations on natural products and the issue of sustainability were delivered dr marielle le maire life cape town chapter pam ellwood chaired the cape chapter organising lectures in cape town has been a bit of a nightmare this year several suppliers were approached but unfortunately no real progress was made two events were hosted this year the first was held on 4 august in the indigo cosmetics training room the lecture was well supported with 20 attendees the lecture was presented by megan benson a product specialist at advanced laboratory solutions who gave a presentation on rheology of cosmetic solids the second meeting was a working session held on 16 november at vital health foods carina malherbe provided guidance on how to achieve compliance with the legislative provisions on bio-prospecting members of the coschem society in cape town are always eager to network and learn from the speakers we would like to urge all suppliers to consider presenting lectures in cape town 7 8

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essentials symrise france revealed two new sirt1 activators derived from plants that may show even better results than resveratrol there was also a presentation by the department of environmental affairs carina malherbe outlining current regulations regarding biodiversity and bioprospecting b&t company specialises in the development of olive-derived ingredients and marco riva gave delegates insights into two of the company s newest ingredients gillian kuhn of akulu marchon sa presented on the environmental impact of surfactants looking at both the biodegradability and affects on water systems she looked at four commonly used surfactants in today s cleaning products and revealed research done on the biodegradability of these products you ll never guess who came out tops like sustainability and ethics especially in terms of notes derived from animals he said dr heidi rolfes of the university of pretoria also avoided the discussion on `green and presented a paper on the stabilisation of emulsions using specific polymeric stabilisers using three model emulsifiers she investigated the effect of high electrolyte and high ph on the stability of emulsions in the prescence of two polymeric emulsion stabilisers ­ inutec sp1 and pluronic pf127 getting back onto the topic of natural ingredients jean-philppe cosson from silab in france looked at the pathways both biological and mechanical for natural actives in trying to achieve skin `radiance he also proposed ways to measure these effects using subjective and objective protocols also on the subject of skin brightening/lightening and evening dr volker rosenberger from dsm nutritional products in switzerland revealed how `super anti-ageing ingredient resveratrol can also be used to inhibit melanogenesis packaging and preservatives were also discussed and many of the delegates found the talk on packaging new and informative annabe pretorius from sapro sa educated delegates on the facts and fiction surrounding plastic packaging revealing that not all that is said is true `packaging attracts lots of negative perception with consumers and environmentalists it is perceived to be a waste of resources contributing to increased levels of waste and linked to all sorts of litter issues said pretorius dr frederic pilz of clariant products in germany discussed his research on different preservative systems focusing on ones that are naturally derived and can be used to protect products as well as enable formulators to make natural and organic claims the conference was once again ended off with a fabulous gala dinner held at the wanderers club in illovo this the day ended off with an eagerly-awaited discussion on the dangers of keratin hair treatments known as the brazilian blowdry the fda has recently issued warnings regarding the safety of these treatments not just for the user but more importantly the professional hair stylists who are continuously exposed to the chemical formaldehyde that many of these products contain although more research into the effects of this exposure need to be conducted data so far has shown some scary possible side effects such as spontaneous abortions and adverse pregnancy outcomes although quieter than the first day the second day also had a lot to interest the delegates a few more presentations regarding natural products and sustainability were delivered as well as some research into synthetic ingredients prof aubrey parsons of ap consultants is renowned in the cosmetic industry for his expertise in fragrances he presented examples of some synthetic chemicals that are of vital importance when creating specific fragrances `although we still rely on nature to inspire us in creating exciting fragrances synthetic and nature-identical compounds can address issues 9 10

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year the theme was mexican fiesta which resulted in a variety of colours and costumes from all who attended with nachos and tequila-flavoured sorbet guests gorged themselves on a fiesta feast followed by some sultry spanish dancing to the live mexican band achieve compliance with the legislation and avoid being convicted or labeled as a bio-pirate carina s presentation detailed the following outline on bio-prospecting what is a permit and how does one apply and benefit sharing and material transfer agreement the working session was well attended by 35 delegates and the day ended with a lovely lunch under the trees lecture evening committee seminar committee the seminar committee which is chaired by juanita kilian hosted two seminars during 2011 the first seminar for 2011 was held in june the topic under discussion was going green measure your business footprint the seminar was held at ambrosia hall in midrand and despite the cold dull and brown winter s environment everyone had their green minds working to warm up inside belinda van der merwe and shani vermeulen from arch personal care gave a very informative presentation on sustainability and green ingredients after tea marcel van rooyen from sharon bolel chemical marketing presented an exciting innovative presentation on formulating green then andrea potti from rap entertained the delegates with his interactive informative presentation on green packaging lastly stuart hamilton from thermopower presented on thermal destruction of cosmetics he reviewed the last step in the supply chain and how to get rid of products in a more environment friendly way in october a working session on compliance to the legislative provisions on bio-prospecting was hosted carina malherbe who is an official from the department of environmental affairs which administers the national environmental management biodiversity act that regulates the use of indigenous resources for commercial or industrial purposes provided guidance on how to the lecture evening committee is chaired by walter van pareen the function of this committee overlaps with that of the social committee regarding the social aspects of these events the two committees offer each other support in order to offer members a balanced portfolio of events the road works on the allandale off-ramp area impacted on the lecture evenings as the traffic chaos served as a deterrent for attendance we were on the lookout for other venues that could serve us in the interim but none as suitable as avroy shlain could be found with the completion of major parts of the road works we now find avroy shlain s venue even more ideal we therefore are still very grateful to avroy shlain and their staff for the use of their lovely venue the centrality of midrand is a great advantage on 24 february it was our pleasure to welcome a previous coschem president dave popplewell from ashland aqualon functional ingredients to lecture on new trends and developments in polymers used in hair and skin care the evening was hosted by imcd chantal o brien de villiers from incosmetics gave a lecture on 24 march the topic doing it right when no one is looking informed members of what to look for when using natural actives there are so many things that can go wrong when producing natural actives and some producers are unscrupulous it is therefore important to understand the industry and to insist on proper technical documentation when using such materials the evening was hosted by incosmetics 11 12

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on 26 may akulu marchon hosted dr aubrey parsons who gave an inspiring presentation on what can nature offer his presentation included a wealth of information about natural ingredients plus information about indigenous plans which are being discovered and significant successes achieved within south africa ladies morning 18 august 2011 spirits were high on the morning of 18 august 2011 when ladies from coschem gathered for what promised to be a day filled with relaxation and useful information everyone received a gorgeous goody bag on arrival our first presenter was jill manson from touched by a flower her remarkable story was inspiring to everyone as she told us how she came to do the work she is currently involved with and how flowers are helping people to express their emotions ladies received personalised messages coupled with particular flowers and many felt that they received a special word of wisdom and encouragement tracy gold discussed the basics of wardrobe planning and highlighted some of the major pitfalls and mistakes women make while choosing clothes before and after pictures showed everyone what could be achieved with a little planning and the right knowledge after a brief leg stretch ken resnik gave us an introduction to the parenting 911 workshops from kensway a few scenarios were explained during which different parenting approaches could be beneficial or detrimental to children s development by the end of the talk it was clear that raising children with an understanding of responsibility and consequences is one of the secrets to raising happy children leah legoai from l oreal rounded off the talks with a discussion on beauty routines different skin types were looked at and leah shared some key tips for taking care of these skin types as well as some makeup ideas social committee social committee members 2011 rohit desai chairperson tiffany de astui michele de beer gloria ford megan jones darryl mostert lonsdale o donovan seema singh michelle woods social events hosted this year include annual golf day 10 may 2011 our annual golf day was held at zwartkop country club we had a great response and the day turned out to be enjoyable for all we were privileged to able to present every participant with a prize at the prize giving dinner we had a fantastic response where we collected monies for charity through the sale of mulligan s and much needed donations were awarded to st francis aids home in boksburg 13 14

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after all of the useful presentations the rest of the afternoon was spent enjoying lunch and networking contributions were made to the lighthouse baby shelter and the jes foord foundation who assist abandoned babies and help recovering rape survivors respectively at the end of the day everyone went home feeling lighter happier and a little more relaxed than when they arrived year-end luncheon 17 november 2011 a lovely warm afternoon was spent at the beautiful buitengeluk garden venue in fourways where members celebrated the culmination of 2011 we were served delicious cocktails in the stunning gardens and then indulged in a scrumptious three course lunch the afternoon was an opportunity for members to relax and catch up with friends and colleges education committee members 2011 jill gardiner chairperson and education officer brigette blaeser robyn clark christine coetzee erica de kock roy gardiner steve ingram megan jones kim maccallum conny oberrauter chantal o brien de villiers sonto pooe lee-ann raaff cosmetic science diploma 2011 it never ceases to surprise us the number of students that apply for the cosmetic science diploma course annually the students come from various walks of life and locations fortunately the student intake for 2011 proved to be of a much higher calibre than last year which in turn has led to better year end results this has confirmed to the education committee that we are on track when we stand firm on the level of education that our course offers we know that those students who complete their cosmetic science diploma will be an asset to the industry it is also important that the learning material for the course is kept relevant and that it is reviewed annually the module 2 legislation 1 unit underwent a substantial rewrite this year to bring it in line with all the cosmetic regulation changes further smaller changes were made to most of the other units which has kept our course updated no local course was run for module 2 this year due to lack of demand thus all module 2 students were correspondence students both a local and a correspondence course was run for module 1 the lecturers who delivered the module 1 lectures are industry experts who give of their time and expertise the education committee reviews feedback from students on the quality of our lectures to ensure that the best possible unit notes and lecturers are provided the cosmetic science diploma exams are traditionally written in october every year this year exams were conducted at five venues scattered education committee the education committee has the onerous task of ensuring that the cosmetic science diploma remains a reputable and sought after qualification within the cosmetic industry their key function is to ensure that suitable topics are selected for assignments that product briefs are relevant and that exam papers are representative of the application based nature of the course they also have to deal with extraneous student issues that arise from time to time and need to ensure that expert lecturers and markers are sourced for the course 15 16

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across south africa and nigeria forty students enrolled for module 1 thirty students met the exam entry criteria and wrote the october exams twenty three students passed the exams four failed and three qualified to write supplementary exams one student obtained a distinction fourteen students enrolled for module 2 seven students met the exam entry criteria and wrote the october exams all seven students passed one with a distinction the year-end results were a vast improvement over last year top module 1 student was wesley perumal who was a correspondent student top module 2 student was nathalie brito who was a correspondent student the creativity award which is for the most creative presentation was also snapped up by nathalie brito congratulations natalie you have a commendable record considering that you took the top module 1 student award last year the norman sanan award which is for the best module 2 project was awarded to percy sibanda who was a correspondent student the future belongs to those who live intensely in the present membership committee membership analysis 2010 vs 2011 category full member associate member student member senior citizen /honorary membership long term total total members as at 31/12/10 267 75 82 18 total members as at 31/12/11 275 62 91 18 10 452 10 456 17

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