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busine s s intelligence for lingerie swimwe ar profe s sional s november 2011 vol 02 issue 10 www.lingerieinsight.com ann summers exclusive managing director vanessa gold reveals the retailer s new partnership strategy birthday notes aware soho mya blue beach news round up allure francaise discover the secret ingredients of french lingerie design lost in eveden eveden ceo tracy lewis looks ahead to aw12 new vista president dave trerotola discusses invista apparel s new product launches it s our t ow i l au n e ch essex gi wrig rl je ssica toliht ta l k s abo new s ut her tore check out our anniversary issue with industry exclusives from some of the biggest names in the sector
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47 front 7 news review a round-up of this month s lingerie and swimwear news first stitch we take a look at the work of new designer rebecca ansah voice of the industry plie sales and marketing director john pearce on trade show challenges speakers corner industry members respond to the asa s imagery ban 5 8 10 11 22 on the cover 14 22 26 28 32 36 38 40 allure francaise we seek out the secret ingredient of french lingerie design ann summers exclusive ann summers md vanessa gold talks to kat slowe about her new role and her plans to develop retail partnerships catwalk solutions we present lingerie solutions to the ss12 catwalk styles lost in eveden chief executive tracy lewis on aw12 product and growth decade of man learn how men s underwear has changed over a decade the wright way towie s jessica wright speaks to li about her new store new vista invista apparel president david trerotola talks exclusively to li from the lycra fibre moves conference keeping it real lindsey brown speaks on designing for `real women 14 26 28 32 regulars 45 46 object of desire the high end piece that has the industry talking this month products showcase an inspirational selection of new lingerie and swimwear www.lingerieinsight.com november 2011 lingerie insight nov gerie i nsight ri e in igh t ig 40 1
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comment busine s s intelligence for lingerie swimwe ar profe s sional s itp promedia publishing 16a baldwins gardens london ec1n 7rj uk tel +44 0 20 31 764228 fax +44 0 20 31 764231 editorial editor kat slowe kat.slowe@itp.com contributors lindsey brown olivier gazay commercial sales manager andrew martyniuk andrew.martyniuk@itp.com studio group art editor daniel prescott daniel.prescott@itp.com designed in conjunction with quadrum solutions www.quadrumltd.com digital chief technology officer hitendra molleti hitendra.molleti@itp.com online production ernesto ceralde rose yorobe production distribution group production distribution director kyle smith kyle.smith@itp.com deputy production manager matthew grant matthew.grant@itp.com database management manju sajeesh manju.sajeesh@itp.com circulation circulation customer service +971 4 286 8559 web www.lingerieinsight.com printed by wyndeham grange the publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication however caused the opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances the ownership of trademarks is acknowledged no part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing an exception is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review busine s s intelligence for lingerie swimwe ar profe s sional s it is hard to believe that it is has been only a year since we launched the first issue of lingerie insight so much has happened in terms of both retail and the growing impact that intimate apparel is having on the consumer consciousness with celebrities ranging from the likes of rihanna and nicole scherzinger through to the latest x factor contestants donning underwear as outerwear in ever increasing numbers never has brand exposure been so high in the uk over the past year not only have we seen new offerings hit the high street from the likes of baci lingerie and boux avenue but we have also seen existing retailers and brands move forward in leaps and bounds proving that the uk market is truly the one to watch in terms of innovation creative design and quality product this month we bring you a series of industry exclusives from the likes of invista apparel president dave trerotola new ann summers managing director vanessa gold and the only way is essex actress and with love jessica founder jessica wright these are just a few of the personalities who are currently in very different ways having a big impact on the market in which we all work the next twelve months could number among the most exciting periods that we have seen for intimate apparel in the uk as new launches such as victoria s secret create even greater fervor in the marketplace and build on existing momentum the industry needs to surf this wave of opportunity for this is one rush that you cannot afford to miss kat slowe editor kat.slowe@itp.com november cover cover ultimo model wears ultimo miracle omg plunge bra photographer daniel kennedy model luisana lopilato image courtesy of ultimo.co.uk and debenhams.com published by and copyright 2011 promedia ltd incorporated and registered in the british virgin islands under company number 1559854 2 lingerie insight november 2011 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
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for information on body wrap b please contact via tel +44 01423 885374 email info@patricia-eve.co.u website www.patricia-eve.co.u shaping your big day
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news review front this month in lingerie and swimwear news in brief news in quote s gr aduate focus voice of the industry spe akers corner calendar web highlights 6 7 8 10 11 11 12 ultimo unveils argentinian supermodel luisana lopilato as new face of brand esigner lingerie brand ultimo has revealed argentinian actress and supermodel luisana lopilato as its new face ultimo has selected the blonde buenos aires-born 24-year-old married to world superstar michael bublé to front the brand s autumn winter 2011 campaign available from debenhams and www.ultimo.co.uk lopilato is an award-winning actress and recording artist in her d homeland having shot to teenage stardom on a latin american glee-style tv series chiquititas tv show girls and appearing on spanish fhm s 100 sexiest list for the past three years in a row catching the eye of ultimo founder michelle mone obe after seeing her wedding pictures earlier this year lopila wears ultimo s miracle lingerie collection in the new photos mone said luisana is one of our most exciting international signings yet and i m confident she ll bring a new sense of fun and glamour to the brand as our incredible face and body it took me a long time to get her but i refused to give up until i got her luisana s jaw-dropping beauty and charisma are a perfect fit for ultimo and we can t wait to unveil our new designs following in the footsteps of mel b sarah harding helena christensen and brazilian supermodel raica oliveira as the brand s new star lopitana who has previously fronted campaigns for coca cola and l oreal added i m thrilled to be the new face and body of ultimo and it was an amazing experience shooting the campaign women know how important the right lingerie can be to feel confident comfortable and sexy on the inside and ultimo s miracle strikes the perfect balance the campaign for spring/summer 2012 will see lopitana showcasing the ultimo fashion collection which features lace satin and catwalk-inspired prints for images of the ss12 collections and daily breaking news visit www.lingerieinsight.com november 2011 lingerie insight 5
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front news review news review online retailer tightsplease has taken on new hosiery range mary charnos the result of a collaboration between `queen of shops mary portas and the classic uk hosiery brand the popular e-tailer timed the launch of the collection mary charnos to coincide with the new mary portas show `queen of frocks which aired last month the show went behind the scenes with mary portas producing her range of clothing and accessories for high street giant house of fraser the show also featured the charnos hosiery range which mary portas and charnos worked on closely together angela knight lingerie has furry or scaly glory on a pair of la senza pyjamas the competition is open to all pets and there are four categories to choose from including dogs cats small furries hamsters rabbits etc and other pets fi sh snakes etc uct sold 1 million units in the us in a week and sold out in four hours online in the uk the new bra a favourite of towie s maria fowler focuses on soft support and comfort and eliminates the need for wires hooks or adjusting straps the advertising standards agency asa has announced the only way is essex towie star lucy mecklenburgh was pictured wearing designer swimwear brand lisa blue in the daily star sunday last month the reality tv actress wore the brand s show bird one piece in the image the show bird collection is part of lisa blue s second summer collection and is available to order now for spring delivery mecklenburgh is reportedly a big fan of lisa blue and requested nearly every piece in the collection for her recent holiday with `then boyfriend mario falcone isle of wight lingerie retailer sugar and spice is encouraging women to recycle their bras for the benefit of women in africa the company has partnered with national charity against breast cancer to promote the new scheme women can take part in the project by depositing their unwanted bras in bra banks at the retailers s ryde or newport outlets for each tonne of bras donated against breast cancer recovers £1000 which goes towards aiding local commerce in africa and also creating jobs in the uk 6 announced the launch of a new bespoke website the hungerford based boutique shot to fame after it notoriously fitted kate carole and pippa middleton for the royal wedding earlier this year it stocks brands including sally jones shell belle couture fred ginger velda lauder chantelle fauve huit lejaby myla and beautiful bottoms department store retailer debenhams plans to hire 6,500 that it will be taking a fi rmer line when considering complaints about `sexualised imagery in outdoor advertising the aim is to ensure that children are appropriately protected from `irresponsible sexual imagery the asa will be taking decisions on a case-by-case basis and will consider complaints that it receives about sexual imagery in light of a new report it has received on the public s views from the mothers union high street lingerie brand la senza opened four new stores seasonal temps to cope with the busy christmas period this year it has revealed the company claims its emphasis is on flexible shift patterns that will ensure additional staff are in store whenever customers need them successful candidates will work with the department store from mid november until the beginning of january to cover the `pre-christmas spectacular through to the beginning of the january sale new beachwear retailer the bikini club tbc has launched last month to add to the existing 160 outlets nationwide the have opened in brighton trafford huddersfield and wakefield the brighton and trafford stores are benefiting from enhanced design features as seen in westfield stratford city adding to the planned concept roll out by la senza high street lingerie chain la senza is on a nationwide hunt this month online the website will be offering a series of established and up and coming brands including the likes of nookie beach kind eberjey ginja baku and lspace retail giants tesco and bhs are the fi rst uk retail to fi nd the `cutest and most beloved british pets the retailer has launched a new competition where a series of lucky pets will win the opportunity to be pictured in all their ers to stock the new genie bra which entered into stores in october the record breaking prod lingerie insight november 2011 www.lingerieinsight.com
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news review front news in quotes the site design has been something we have been working on for months and it is very exciting to see it live on the website tightsplease buying and marketing manager nicola pringle speaks about the re-design of company s e-tail site for a new fashion forward and trend led look i think it is a great privilege to be in such a big department store and have the opportunity to offer customers our collection heidi klein co-founder penny klein talks about the launch of the luxury swimwear brand s first shop-in-shop in liberty london on november 2 swimming is a fantastic health and fitness activity enjoyed by millions of people every day the speedo roadshow is designed to present the full breadth of the speedo range and give advice to anybody looking to find the right swimwear speedo brand president david robinson on the launch of the company s new consumer facing `speedo roadshow as a mum myself i know how important it is that retailers offer parents and their children a choice of age appropriate clothing and styles tesco clothing design director jan marchant on how the retailer is launching a new range of `first bras for girls created in partnership with a popular online community for parents mumsnet many young people considering university will be worried about building up huge debts which will take years to pay off an alternative is to get a job which gives access to training and personal development funded by an employer while also picking up a salary that option is getting more attractive all the time brc director general stephen robertson on how the world of work is becoming an increasingly tempting alternative to university something to say email info@lingerieinsight.com the company triumph international belongs to the global players in the lingerie sector with 37,000 employees worldwide an annual turnover of 2.3 billion swiss francs and a multifacetted product palette that is sold in more than 120 countries all around the globe with its core brands triumph® sloggi® valisère® and hom® for these branded goods triumph manages and controls the whole value chain from design to distribution and sales via own or partner retail outlets for the global brand department at our worldwide headquarter in bad zurzach switzerland zürich area we are looking for a merchandise manager brand organization m/f the position you are a specialist in the lingerie field delivering the company a product portfolio that constitutes sustainable and profitable growth you understand the technical dependencies of range planning building product assortments as well as price and distribution planning you also identify and build strong team networks across various levels of management and organisations · · · · · · · · · the requirements international experience as a merchandise manager/product manager/brand manager minimum of two to five years experience in the fashion industry broad understanding of the female consumer high level of product sensitivity ideally for lingerie fashion and apparel deep understanding of the dynamics of financial management kpi setting and building profit and revenue is a must dispose of a high level of drive energy and commitment to delivering results open-minded solution-oriented and structured approach to work fluent in written and spoken english knowledge of a further european language is beneficial triumph international triumph offers the right candidate an opportunity to work in a dynamic team within an international environment spiesshofer braun if you are seeking a great opportunity to develop your career please send by email your application letter cv work kommanditgesellschaft references diplomas and expected salary range in english language to mrs gisela zoelch hr business partner to promenadestrasse 24 the following email-address careers.ch@triumph.com ch-5330 bad zurzach www.lingerieinsight.com november 2011 lingerie insight 7
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front news review news review rored textures on columns and tropical plants co-founder penny klein told lingerie insight it is part of our development strategy to take our brand to different places it s fantastic to have an outlet there because we are a bit more residential in chelsea or notting hill anita uk made an appearance celebrating emerging talent luxury lingerie and bodywear label rebecca ansah has launched in the uk with its debut aw11 collection blue armour the versatile collection features pieces that can double as both intimate apparel and outerwear products from the new range were recently used in a shoot with makeup artist sheeba rayne who is soon to launch her line of own make-up products pieces were also worn by dancers on a live x factor show last month designer rebecca ansah has completed a degree in fashion design in barbados on her return to the uk she gained experience with the likes of luxury brands agent provocateur and kriss soonik with her new range the designer aims to target uk retailers such as coco de mer bordello mise en cage lingerie collective and online e-tailer pleasurements are you a student or recent graduate and want to be featured in first stitch email info@lingerieinsight.com first stitch designer label else has launched in us retailer victoria s secret the retail giant is offering two sets from the turkish brand in its top ten to 15 stores in the us it is stocking the black/ivory corselette bra and suspender thong and the bronze/ivory triangle bra and high-waist brief from else luxury swimwear brand heidi klein has announced that it will be opening a shop-in-shop in liberty london on november 2 the new outlet is situated on the fi rst floor the 64square metre space is designed to have the feel of a beach cabana with white washed panelled walls floors and shutters at the windows that aim to cast a light airy feel contrasted with mir on channel 5 s celebrity wish list in october the brand took part in the series third episode which told the story of the ladies at lavender lingerie from the south gwent breast cancer support group with a deadline of only 48 hours anita uk was asked to create bespoke new products for terri dwyer to present to the charity as a thank you for all its hard work with breast cancer patients in its community pulling out all the stops anita general manager jemma barnes managed to hit the deadline and deliver fi fty bespoke bras along with an all expenses paid mini-break to austria for the two founding members of the charity a hoodie that was designed by london college of fashion student natalie bouloux has been worn on x factor by singer misha b the item which is sold under lingerie collective s new enfant terrible label a new umbrella brand for up and coming designers was showcased on stage in a live show last month online lingerie sales dropped by 12 percent in september the greatest drop in any sector apart from travel according to the latest fi gures from the imrg capgemini e-retail sales index despite the decline sales were up by 27 percent on the same period the previous year august 11 to september 11 store envy ann summers westfield stratford city ann summers launched a new flagship store at westfield last month the event debuted a new store design concept which will gradually be rolled out to other outlets in the coming months ann summers chief executive jacqueline gold told lingerie insight i m delighted with the launch this has been two years coming for this store the launch party was attended by the likes of lizzie cundy towie twins dio and georgio the apprentice 2008 finalist claire young and former hollyoaks actress and strictly come dancing contestant ali bastian got a store envy suggestion email info@lingerieinsight.com 8 lingerie insight november 2011 www.lingerieinsight.com
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front news review voice of the industry what happened to the lingerie trade show news review uk lingerie awards fi nalist who made your pants has launched a new `buried treasures range the fi rst product to become available from the new collection is the pirate pink short retailing at £10 the fi rst of 300 pairs of pirate pink shorts came off the machines last month six weeks after the initial fabric sample was received at whomadeyourpants southampton factory the lingerie collective aw12 john pearce sales marketing director plié europe the star of hit tv show `celebrity juice keith lemon has been spotted visiting swanky 2005 when we launched a future gazing down empty aisles and the brazilian seam-free peering in at lonely sales people doodling menswear store `norton barrie shapewear brand plié here in wilmslow cheshire where he on empty order pads i have to confess i purchased a pair of waxx `lolin europe the question i have most began to fear the worst lipop pants been asked by journalists and industry a trade show could and should be so while in the store lemon recolleagues is `are you doing the next much better the chance to see all your lingerie show colleagues and competitors on one shop portedly put the pants which feature ladies provocatively licking trade shows are the life-blood of floor and maybe take a few of them out lollipops and bananas over the new brands in 2007 i drove myself for dinner it should be a time to showtop of his trousers and described and seven plastic mannequins wearing and-tell your undies to news hungry them as being `bang tidy seam-free shapewear down to buyers all chomping at the bit for the southern france for what turned out to latest trends and designs there could lemon then joked that he would wear them like that on his be the last ever lyon mode city paired be queues of independent retailers and up with interfiliere it was a sprawling next episode of celebrity juice their buying buddies on jollies all waiting s ince the summer of once more of whether these events have event covering four nec-style halls with to see what the lingerie industry has warm sun streaming though the roof lights and footfall so abundant we were able to guide buyers onto our booth and fill up our order books with many thousands of euros of business i was instantly hooked on the multi-cultural buzz and the big numbers and swore i d be back the next season for salon de la lingerie in paris and back in lyon for another fix in 2008 but this tradeshow junkie was about to have his supply interrupted the lyon lingerie show was bounced up to paris in 2008 but twice the price this year s mode city show was brought forward to july yet another change to a show that seems to be shrinking every season plié filled a 16m booth for the fifth year running and had a very positive show again but the murmurings around the halls were dreamt up for the new season not some half-interested sales agent dozing off in him a drink of cafe -au lait at paul i ve been back a few weeks and already the lovely ladies at eurovet are `mithering me to sign up for salon in february and of course i know i ll cave eventually but i do wonder if there isn t a gap in the market for something new a euro-wide event that is easier to pay for that is only focused on us the people of pants and bras and that has the pulling moonwalk whatever the market moves to in the lingerie trade fair business it needs to move there soon the clock is definitely ticking and events that need not be named are closing down fast so when i m asked which show i m doing next i ll have to say `dunno it hasn t been invented yet but when it is i ll sign up agent provocateur has appeared in a fake lingerie ad in the novemthe image which sees model karen elson pose in lingerie for an imaginary brand was part of a series of similar photos taken in a spoof ad photoshoot wearing an agent provocateur custom suede and satin lingerie set elson is depicted with five male models in submissive poses each of the nude men sports reddened bottoms courtesy of makeup artist pat mcgrath with the intention to `create an image that was just plain naughty the corner wondering who s going to buy ber issue of w magazine event will take place for the 4th season at the music rooms in the heart of london s mayfair from sunday 15th to tuesday 17th january the lingerie collective will be exhibiting a series of british and international directional brands including uk lingerie award nominees and winners bordelle lascivious made by niki miss mandalay and obey my demand th is season also sees the return of damaris mimi holliday to the show and will be the fi rst opportunity for visitors to view the new black label by yes master range in addition the lingerie collective will be welcoming several brands to the show for the fi rst time such as aubade beingu claudette id sarrieri hotmilk marika vera pleasure state damaris is celebrating ten years with a new pop up shop of damaris and mimi holliday collections exclusive to brown thomas for the christmas period after its pop up in selfridges london mimi holliday is now expanding the concept to the irish department store damaris has collaborated with young british designer giles miller to create the pop up shop s design where hotels and parking are abundant power of an event like london s charity 10 lingerie insight november 2011 www.lingerieinsight.com
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news review front speakers corner diary dates 23rd-25th november palais de festivals cannes mare di moda is a trade faire for lingerie and beachwear which is held in cannes it offers the opportunity for exhibitors and distributors to come together and receive information on the latest fashions sarah parmenter pr baci lingerie uk christina acklam marketing manager figleaves.com dee murren co-founder dirty pretty things 23rd-25th november yiwu international exhibition centre zhejian pr china yiwu h&g 2011 what is your view on the asa s ban of overly provocative imagery on billboard advertising the asa s decision to take a firmer line when it comes to explicit billboard advertising is not surprising there s been plenty of debate and concern recently about the early sexualisation of children these days which i personally think is valid of course we don t want sexually explicit billboards located where anyone especially children can see them baci lingerie is a brand for adults and much of our marketing imagery is unapologetically sexual and provocative in style so long as it is placed in adult-specific environments be they physical in the media or on-line that s fine images play an important role in not only telling a story and selling product but also representing our brand values we know that our customers enjoy sexier and more aspirational imagery at key periods such as valentine s or christmas but we take care to ensure the photography is relevant and appropriate for the occasion and audience our christmas campaign imagery has just gone onsite and there is a real high fashion sensibility and theme behind the shots rather than simply showcasing underwear in a revealing way as a mother of course i want to protect my children from overtly sexual imagery as any parent would however i am also concerned that the new guidelines could be over zealously enforced i do not feel it is healthy for children to be exposed to the darker sides of sexuality however i feel music videos are much more sexual than many lingerie ads and i do restrict the videos my daughter has access to as most are very demeaning to women some brands will probably use the guidelines to their advantage and get their ads banned to generate more press for their label is a professional exhibition specialising in hosiery and seamless underwear machinery the event is increasingly becoming a must-go knitting exhibition for both local and overseas knitting manufacture 15-17th january the music rooms the lingerie collective will be putting on a show of mid to high end lingerie brands ranging from uk high fashion labels through to international iconic names the event which will see brands exhibit their aw12 collections will continue at the same venue for the season 21-23rd january pavilion 1 porte de versailles paris the salon international de la lingerie is an international exhibition of lingerie nightwear corsetry men s lingerie hosiery body underwear terry cloth swimwear slippers and household linen it is a focal point for lingerie fashion and the latest trends with around 20,000 visitors each year 21-23rd january porte de versailles paris the interfi liere news flash pretty polly has announced international singer and songwriter jessie j as the new star of the house of holland for pretty polly aw11 campaign the scenes depict jessie j as a stylish heroine in a series of comic-strip inspired scenarios showing off the power of pretty polly statement tights pretty polly claimed that jessie j who has earned herself international super-stardom in the music industry was the natural choice for the groundbreaking fashion campaign for pretty polly jessie j said i was the front of the queue for legs ever since i started out as a singer tights have been for more my statement when you put on a pair of tights news visit you feel sexy and powerful i have been wearing www.lingerieinhouse of holland for pretty polly tights for ages sight.com there was a point when i almost hadn t realised i was wearing them every time i left my house trade fair seeks to showcase technique know-how and fabric innovation deciphering and anticipating tomorrow s fashion trends no less than 145 exhibitors from several countries countries will present their summer 2013 collections at the 11 www.lingerieinsight.com november 2011 lingerie insight
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front news review most read online editor s choice 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 tallulah love lights up towie lingerie shop launch exclusive pics towie lingerie store launch natalie bouloux design on x factor playful promises opens central london boutique playtex searches for peace in war on channel 4 agent provocateur appears in fake lingerie ads jessie j in house of holland for pretty polly exclusive fauve to launch loungewear for aw12 gallery collection freya at the mobos booth is visited by likes of jessie j dionne bromfield emeli sande saha 2012 swimwear colombian brand seeks ties with luxury retailers across the uk video genie bra taken on by tesco and bhs ann summers considers new retail partnerships news armani releases rihanna strip teaser video clip seeks to drive customers to new website armani.com mimi holliday pops up in brown thomas dublin brand to open flagship mimi holliday store in september 2012 lingerie tweets sign the l lessbounce online e-petition to try and g sports bras included with and ry a get school pe kits @berleiuk @be rleiu u we are no listed in @guardian ethical now o fashion directory yay fashion d r ion dir @whomadeyour @wh oma a soon hun x @alexissmithbras finishing off sewing a leopard print bodysuit for an online customer and watching jersey shore @sugarlesque on my way to london for a exciting meeting with @lulu_lonsdalesee you 12 lingerie insight november 2011 www.lingerieinsight.com
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ardee group +44 1488657900 gunning ltd +44 1619417403 www.lisecharmel.com
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