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busine s s intelligence for lingerie swimwe ar profe s sional s january 2012 vol 03 issue 01 www.lingerieinsight.com stripped bare st rip co founders strip co-founders speak i on expansion their new loungewear line shaping success discover how the sector is set to prosper in 2012 elle get intim s at e m ac p h ta lkersons abo chal leng eu t s g r ow th dekkers dares marlies dekkers discusses her new affordable range climate change michelle mone advises on how to overcome the retail blight preview paris news review opinion legwear international lingerie collective fi d t how b find out h brands and fabric d df b i manufacturers will be setting the stage at this year s salon and interfiliere shows

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visit us at salon international de la lingerie paris 21 22 23 january 2012 www.valisere.com

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46 6 front 5 news review a round-up of this month s lingerie and retail news first stitch we take a look at the work of designer jenny mearns voice of the industry yes master s founder talks on retail doom and gloom speakers corner industry members discuss their new year s resolutions 8 10 11 5 on the cover 14 22 26 30 34 36 40 42 paris preview catch a glimpse of the products that will be exhibited at the salon international de la lingerie and interfi liere shows stripped bare strip s co-founders reveal their plans for business expansion shaping success learn how a selection of key brands will be shaping the industry in the months ahead leg up head behind-the-scenes of legwear international dekkers dares marlies dekkers discusses her new affordable range lingerie collective preview sneak a peek in advance of this month s london event climate change michelle mone speaks on how to survive these tough times elle gets intimate elle macpherson talks challenges and brand growth for 2012 20 22 40 30 44 regulars 45 46 object of desire the high end piece that has the industry talking this month products showcase an inspirational selection of new lingerie and swimwear www.lingerieinsight.com january 2012 lingerie insight 1

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comment busine s s intelligence for lingerie swimwe ar profe s sional s itp promedia publishing 16a baldwins gardens london ec1n 7rj uk tel +44 0 20 31 764228 fax +44 0 20 31 764231 editorial editor kat slowe kat.slowe@itp.com contributor michelle mone commercial sales manager andrew martyniuk andrew.martyniuk@itp.com studio group art editor daniel prescott daniel.prescott@itp.com designed in conjunction with quadrum solutions www.quadrumltd.com digital chief technology officer hitendra molleti hitendra.molleti@itp.com online production ernesto ceralde rose yorobe production distribution group production distribution director kyle smith kyle.smith@itp.com deputy production manager matthew grant matthew.grant@itp.com database management manju sajeesh manju.sajeesh@itp.com circulation circulation customer service +971 4 286 8559 web www.lingerieinsight.com printed by wyndeham grange the publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication however caused the opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances the ownership of trademarks is acknowledged no part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing an exception is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review busine s s intelligence for lingerie swimwe ar profe s sional s what is your new year s resolution this year have you got exciting plans for new products a personal message that you want to spread or are you simply hoping to survive the next 12 months many companies will be entering into the year with trepidation while others will be optimistically counting their potential profits both attitudes are justified after all no one can know for sure what is going to happen towards the end of last year we sent out a survey to our readers asking them what their retail sales predictions were for the next twelve months over 12 different product categories 103 industry professionals responded and their answers made for interesting reading the lingerie insight readers were most confident in the performance of the fuller figure sector with 73.4 percent predicting that retail sales in the area would increase and 56.7 percent predicting that they would increase by over five percent other product areas that most respondents considered were likely to see sales growth included shapewear 60 percent swimwear 64.7 percent and mastectomy 63 percent our readers appeared most concerned about the maternity accessories nightwear men s underwear and corsetry sectors for which over 60 percent of respondents said they thought retail sales would either stay the same or fall so my advice would be do not despair but do not live in false optimism either be sensible review your sales for 2011 and make sure that you expand or contract your product categories based on your figures not your fears yes you should pay attention to your instincts but you should also use your head for this is a year where taking too great a risk could easily prove your downfall kat slowe editor kat.slowe@itp.com january cover cover valisere model wears valisere aw12 collection website www.valisere.com published by and copyright 2012 promedia ltd incorporated and registered in the british virgin islands under company number 1559854 2 lingerie insight january 2012 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

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innovative shapewear at ie it us la linger vis onal rnati ary 2012 inte salon 1­23 janu 9 e 2 stand by 17498+10420+11420 naturana ltd partnership lichfield staffs ws13 6rt phone 01543 414441 fax 01543 441609 info@naturana.co.uk www.naturana.com

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news review front this month in lingerie and swimwear news in brief news in quote s gr aduate focus voice of the industry spe akers corner calendar web highlights 6 7 8 10 11 11 12 scandale shapewear re-launches at salon international de la lingerie show i conic french lingerie brand scandale is staging a return to the market at this month s salon international de la lingerie trade show the re-launch is a result of scandale s acquisition by renowned hong kong-based lingerie specialist hop lun the brand will be exhibiting its new sirène collection at the salon international event which will see intimate apparel companies from all corners of the world meet in paris to showcase their aw12 offerings the new range seeks to elevate traditional shapewear to a `new level of chic cosmetic lingerie with designs inspired by the brand s vintage creations brought up to date with innovative new fabrics and technology scandale pieces no 1 to no.8 form the essential lingerie collection composed of a bodysuit dress balconette bra smooth back bra open front cami mid waist pants high waist pants and skirt the collection incorporates a series of heritage inspired details and is made from a combination of high shine satin dot mesh and lace built in pants adjustable fas tenings and soft boning seek to provide versatility while double layers of lightweight fabric and targeted medium control panels are placed to enhance and define curves products are available in classic black champagne gold and a pairing of metallic silver with black distinguished with a glimpse of scandale s signature red hidden beneath each strap for images of the aw12 collections and daily breaking news visit www.lingerieinsight.com january 2012 lingerie insight 5

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front news review news review captured the imagination of press and buyers alike the brand has featured regularly in the likes of vogue tatler and harpers bazaar and has been stocked by retailers such as browns fashions net-aporter and barneys ny smaga admits to being greatly inspired by coco chanel and refers often to old world elegance to evoke `a new luxury vintage brand tara starlet has introduced a new collection of underwear to its range the line which includes camisoles halfslips french knickers and full slips is inspired by women who possess `a time-honoured attention to detail the pieces have been designed to act as a foundation for the perfect vintage ensemble all garments are available in black and nude and manufactured locally in london town they are currently available from www.tarastarlet.com a new figleaves.com christmas ad campaign featuring slovakian born model martina valkova in silk underwear and hold-ups has reportedly led to a 65 percent sales increase in men s and women s underwear the fi gleaves.com twitter page has apparently been a hive of activity with many commuters tweeting about the poster which launched on the underground last month the company also claimed that multiple accidents on escalators and platforms had been reported in central london stations nearly all involving male travellers craning for another look dirty pretty things is exhibiting soak wash inc has created a series of newly designed travel packs in response to a demand for minisoaks as resalable items while top stockists traditionally give out minisoaks with every purchase as a gift the new travel packs have been developed to fi ll the gap for single use samples as multipacks travel packs will be available in scentless and assorted fragrances soak has also created customizable two-packs that retailers and lingerie brands can use as gwp items many brands have reportedly already taken advantage of this offer over the holiday period the newly designed packaging is also one of the fi rst steps in soak s updated branding ender legard corsetry by corsetier asia smaga launched in harrods last month smaga founded ender legard corsetry in 2004 and quickly pop up shop in selfridges leading british jewellery designer stephen webster has joined forces with the luxury lingerie brand to celebrate the launch of `dirty loves steve pop-up shop in selfridges london store a match of creative minds between stephen webster and the dpt design duo dee murren and claire merry sees the best-selling `eloise style reworked with webster s envy pendant from his celebrated `seven deadly sins collection exclusively for the pop-up shop the product is bejeweled with black white and green sahara crystal pave stones and set in sterling silver complete with matching briefs customised with teardrop crystals london based agnes valentine has been invited by french retailer 3 suisses to design two exclusive swimsuits for its summer 2012 season 3 suisses who has previously collaborated with the likes of karl lagerfeld alexandre vauthier jonathan saunders and richard nicoll is present in 30 countries through online sales its website attracts nine million unique visitors per month and it issues over six million copies of its catalogue each season the two swimsuits from the new collaboration feature clean lines and graphic combinations for a bold yet structured silhouette and a `practical chic look lingerie brand fleur of england collaborated on a competition for the second year `contour fashion students at de montfort university last month the students task was to create two knickers and a bra for one of the fleur of england moods fiercely feminine romantic powerful playful and luxurious for their technical project fleur of england founder fleur turner said i think it s so important to encourage our young talent at university you are at your most creative and it needs to be nurtured i am very excited about this project and hope it leads to many more in the future i am particularly interested in the photos the students will produce and their ideas of styling their creations the prizes include fleur of england lingerie student showcase blog posts and work experience speedo has secured full fina fédération internationale de natation approval for a world fi rst concept to revolutionise the sport of swimming ­ a cap goggle and suit engineered to work together as one revolutionary racing system unveiled on november 30 during an exclusive global launch event the speedo fastskin3 racing system claims to offer unrivalled benefits to swimmers including a full body passive drag reduction of up to 16.6 percent an 11 percent improvement in the swimmer s oxygen economy enabling them to swim stronger for longer and a 5.2 percent reduction in body active drag to create the world s fastest cap goggle and suit ever at the lingerie collective again this year in advance of its new 6 lingerie insight january 2012 www.lingerieinsight.com

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news review front news in quotes we received some exceptional window display entries and it was particularly hard to judge everyone went to enormous effort however shirley allum s display was a clear winner and their use of additional props uniform colour scheme and sophisticated merchandising epitomised all things fantasie fantasie sales director nigel addison on how shaftesbury lingerie retailer shirley allum won the brand s window display competition which was set up to celebrate 10 years of its best selling product belle the model of the high street is outdated it s working in the same way that it did in the 1960s except it s not 1960 anymore queen of shops mary portas speaks to the bbc about her new high street review which was released last month did i ever think i had enough booty to advertise a push-up bra no but am i working it or what male model andrej pejic on modelling a push up bra for the advertising campaign of dutch department store hema it was once my baby and i take no comfort theo paphitis discusses la senza bringing in accountants kpmg to advise on a re-structuring agreement for the company there are so many vintage lingerie pieces i love that i haven t been able to find in all my years of collecting i wanted to design pieces that are tributes to my vintage obsessions to make them beautiful and functional while modernising them for everyday wear dita von teese talks about her new lingerie collection von follies which was developed in conjunction with australian brand development company lime door brands and is being manufactured by diamondcut international something to say email info@lingerieinsight.com www.lingerieinsight.com january 2012 lingerie insight 7

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front news review news review ing to australia features in fi gure-hugging dresses with a bust that looks every-inch a woman s the push-up bra promises to add two cup sizes to any bust jersey department store de gruchy beat stiff competition last month from a series of other independent stores to win the `mary portas recommends playtex window display competition the winning design showed three female mannequins dressed in the `mary portas recommend range through a large keyhole giving the illusion of looking into a woman s bedroom the de gruchy team wins a certificate signed by mary portas a case of six bottles of champagne and restaurant vouchers for a department night out to celebrate luxury lingerie specialist rigby peller is planning a partial store refurbishment for two of its stores rigby peller is currently working on the plans with innovare design with schemes for its outlets in knightsbridge and mayfair currently under discussion david kenton director at rigby peller said our staff and customers rely on us to deliver high standards in product and service we hope to bring in some of the design elements of our newer stores to better the environment and customer experience without losing the heritage that our most established stores are immersed in celebrating emerging talent jenny mearns launched frantic about frances in 2011 after completing an explore enterprise course run by the prince s trust mearn s interest in lingerie started when she worked at she said lingerie boutique in brighton where she quickly progressed up to assistant manager she studied costume design and making at university where she learnt historical pattern cutting and construction including historical corsets and crinolines mearns started gaining stockists in and around brighton early in 2011 and her brand has been growing rapidly ever since it is now stocked within five shops on the south coast and various online lingerie boutiques as well as mearn s own online shop franticaboutfrances.com the designer has further plans for expansion next year including making her industry debut at a lingerie tradeshow are you a student or recent graduate and want to be featured in first stitch email info@lingerieinsight.com first stitch lingerie and swimwear brand freya has launched a new collection of swimwear that helps to save the rainforest freya s new swimming costume and tankini set features sensitive® life soft material from the sensitivecosystem® by eurojersey a scheme that works to protect and save the world and its habitat with the world land trust for every freya swimming costume or tankini set made half a metre of atlantic rainforest is saved accessories brand bebaroque has designed a capsule collection of hosiery and bodysuits for iconic british fashion label ppq launching for spring/summer 2012 the capsule collection will be introduced at ppq s show on the opening day of london fashion week the capsule collection includes a body and legging decorated with an all over repeat digital print combining leopard print ppq brand letters rope and tassels dutch department store hema has created a world-wide sensation by using a male model to advertise its range of push-up bras the androgynous 20-year-old model andrej pejic who was born in bosnia before emigrat8 store envy off the peg dingwall scotland scottish retailer off the peg is the winner of the 2011 `love the fit window dressing competition run by panache lingerie the store was one of several independent customers to take part in the `love the fit window campaign for which retailers were asked to dress their windows using a kit supplied by panache re-creating the same effect as the panache superbra aw11 brochure off the peg won a spa weekend and £500 worth of retail product aileen and alison from off the peg said we loved taking part in the competition customers came to visit our store and they were so intrigued by the live model we can t wait to use our prize got a store envy suggestion email info@lingerieinsight.com lingerie insight january 2012 www.lingerieinsight.com

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front news review voice of the industry the voice of doom and gloom news review been appointed to come up with a range of re-structuring options two of which could include administration or a voluntary agree to close down stores concerns have been raised that almost 2,600 jobs and 158 stores could be at risk but any job losses have yet to be confi rmed by the company which at the point of press was officially unavailable for comment stella mccartney is urging wom burlesque sensation dita von teese has revealed her fi rst lin igor pacemski founder yes master has been the general undertone of financial forecast articles if you know your basic economics you will know that some industries are more exposed and vulnerable than others some have very steep cost curves some are more like a saucer some are directly hit by the prices of oil resources china prices and fixed costs rising other s not so much personally i am of the view that lingerie retail especially the sector most of you operate in is not as affected as most industries you sell brands that are above and beyond the uk average rrp of a bra £17 is the last figure i heard your customer doesn t come to you to buy a £17 grad pad push up she comes to you to be properly fitted pampered spoilt looked after and very often made to feel better about herself on my travels and i am one of the few top end designers and brand representatives who do extensively travel i am surprised to see how many stores are missing the point in terms of providing a shopping experience mismatched hangers awful changing rooms pealing paint and terrible window displays are only a few of the issues i have encountered doom and gloom the euro will collapse high street spending is down we are all finished this porter the marketing guru has clearly outlined his differentiation strategies still key reading in marketing primers that you can differentiate on cost or innovation it doesn t take a braniac to work out that your only chance is to differentiate on innovation start with yourself look fabulous at all times fresh lipstick good hair wear black with bold accessories wear stock you sell become the woman you would like your shop to attract buy elle decorations and get visual merchandising ideas pos in the window no longer cuts it discover your inner vianne in chocolat tantalize with your window displays cross-promote with your adjacencies 10 off days shopping events host champagne evenings use open to buy reserve 30-40 percent of your budget for in-season purchases and 10 percent for risk we are still talking less than £100 a bra most of us drink that on a night out learn excel and read your numbers every monday efficient re-plen and core stock management would increase your turnover by 20 percent i have been in birmingham reading and london in the last three days supporting customer events numerous yes master silk knickers and marlies dekkers lifestyle products found their ways into goody bags ask for support gerie collection the von follies line was developed in conjunction with australian brand development company lime door brands and is manufactured by diamondcut international details of world-wide distribution are yet to be announced but the collection goes on sale in von teese s home country in february next year at nationwide retailer target australia the von follies range was inspired by the artist s long-time love of lingerie and her own personal collection of vintage lingerie the launch range combines sophistication and sensuality with distinct touches such as grosgrain and velvet ribbons delicate eyelash lace and control mesh to give the essence of the sultry 1950 s glamour girl according to the company accountants kpmg have been called in to advise la senza on a re-structuring agreement as uk retailers fi ght to overcome a season of poor sales on the high street the accountancy fi rm has en to embrace quality lingerie and will unveil new collections next year that will appeal to a broader audience than the luxury lines she is known for today speaking to wwd she said that most womenswear designers overlook the importance of lingerie to the overall look achieved with fashion there aren t many ready to wear designers who take lingerie seriously but it really complements my ready to wear collection she told the fashion news service the opening of britain s fi rst victoria s secret store moved a step closer this week with the appointment of a uk managing director for the global brand ian shaw a former retail director at fat face and jack wills will oversee the opening of victoria s secrets fi rst store on new bond street in london two further stores are expected in london but no plans have yet been disclosed about other uk stores outside the capital 10 lingerie insight january 2012 www.lingerieinsight.com

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news review front speakers corner diary dates 15-17th january the music rooms the lingerie collective will be putting on a show of mid to high end lingerie brands ranging from uk high fashion labels through to international iconic names the event which will see brands exhibit their aw12 collections will be expanding into a new larger venue for 2012 catherine clavering founder kiss me deadly neil moore sales manager naturana judy hull sales manager bassoni 21-23rd january pavilion 1 porte de versailles paris the salon international de la lingerie what is your new year s resolution my new year s resolution is to promote the independent sector more although we ve been growing at around 10 percent a year all through the recession we know lots of independent retailers are finding it challenging and i suspect most of our 8000 facebook fans don t have a clue what `independent brand means or why the independent sector matters so starting from late january we re going to be doing something about that watch out for our indie brand love in promotion looking forward to 2012 our goals are to build on our core identity and continue to develop and diversify the naturana brand we intend to focus on the creation of a new range of specialist designs that are both practical and affordable we also plan to capitalise on the incredible response to our perfect body range with the creation of new styles and new colourways this will include the introduction of a dedicated shapewear swimwear range 2011 was a crazy year for us here at bassoni and little minx uk with the opening of the distribution centre securing numerous new accounts and expanding into the uk multiple market it really was a great year 2012 promises to be even crazier with so many plans on board we are working with new agents in the european market and we will have a big announcement in march regarding little minx within the uk market so i guess my new year s resolution is world domination and to stop eating so much chocolate show is an international exhibition of lingerie nightwear corsetry homeward men s lingerie hosiery body underwear terry cloth swimwear slippers and household linen a focal point for lingerie fashion and the latest trends with around 20,000 visitors each year the show will be enjoying its 48th edition this january 21-23rd january porte de versailles paris the interfiliere trade fair seeks to showcase technique know-how and fabric innovation deciphering and anticipating tomorrow s fashion trends 11-13th february the venetian hotel resort hotel casino las vegas and 21 -23rd february jacob k javits convention center new york usa curve las vegas and curve new york are the largest news flash invista one of the world s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibres will announce a cutting-edge advancement in lycra® fibre technology in paris this january the innovation called lycra® fibre with w technology is designed to offer the european fabric industry a new level of performance in an elastane fibre for intimate apparel offering improved whiteness retention uniformity and brilliant colour clarity for fabrics and garments for the intimate apparel industry the company claims that this technology will enhance styling flexibility and will be the foundation for both whites and fashion colours for more it is reportedly ideal for both warp and circular news visit knit fabrics delivering visible improvements www.lingerieinand allowing robust mill processing sight.com invista will officially launch the new fibre technology at a gala event in paris this month events of their kind in north america with more than 200 brands exhibiting they attract lingerie boutiques swimwear retailers and department stores from all over the world to shop for the latest in lingerie men s underwear swimwear and activewear 17-23rdfebruary somerset house london uk london fashion week will be showcas ing a series of the top british and international designers 11 www.lingerieinsight.com january 2012 lingerie insight

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front news review most read online editor s choice 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 acrobatic launch of speedo fastskin 58 year old unveiled as new face of reger coppafeel launches first 3d boobs live in london stella mccartney works on invisible lingerie lines figleaves poster drives 65 sales increase mrs buble sparks bra sales boost gallery curvy kate aw12 lingerie shoot damaris sends first bridal collection up the aisle gallery collection playful promises london pop-up launch lingerie brand launches a new pop up shop at boxpark wolford s aw 2012 hosiery collection luxury brand introduces stunning range for the new season video gallery jilly johnson models for reger dita von teese reveals her own lingerie collection news carvico jersey lomellina for green future fabric manufacturing giants reveal why they want to support the environment dutch store uses male model to promote push-up bra hema uses andrej pejic to front new lingerie advertising campaign lingerie tweets lingerie lingerieinsight kpmg drafted in to e re-structure la senza this would account re-stru ur struct r for the 50 per xmas sale then @jacqueline_gold @ja cque e if @timte @timtebow wins the championship e @jockeyhas $1mm on the line you @jockey ckeyha could win help rt win @jockey lingerie has come out of the closet people talk about it people are looking for things to enhance @lingeriediva 12,000,000 knickers bought by men this christmas will never be worn by their partners are you in this statistic we hope not x @leialingerie 12 lingerie insight january 2012 www.lingerieinsight.com

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ardee group +44 1488657900 gunning ltd +44 1619417403 www.lisecharmel.com

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