RDJ-1-2017

 

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RDJ-1-2017

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16+ The biggest manmade diamonds Booth A24 Hall Discovery 4U Russian in Hong Kong RusGoldArt The True Russian Jewelry Design Rose Quartz SPRING 2017 ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT www.fresh925.ru

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XIV INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW AMBER TRIP 8-11 MARCH, 2017 LITEXPO LAISVES AV. 5, VILNIUS, LITHUANIA Pi CA SI NO € WC @ ADVERTISEMENT TEL. +370 618 53538 • Tel./Fax +370 5 2608495 • info@ambertrip.com • www.ambertrip.com

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Dear colleagues! Last year Russian jewelry market was set off by decline of retail jewelry sales and jewelry production drop. On the other hand, devaluation of the national currency, with the result that did not benefit from the import of jewelry and any opportunities for export development. Since January 1, 2017 jewelry import duty was reduced from 20% to 12%, and import duties on colored gems probably will be cancell, as well for foreign machinery and equipment too. The biggest success of today – the fact, that in the first round of International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2017, in which took part 165 pieces from 27 countries, the eight finalists included three winners of Russian Diamond Line 2016: necklace and ring «Firebird» (CLUEV, Moscow), ring “For Form” (Natalia Tarasova and Tatiana Tarasova, St. Petersburg) and set “Firebird Feather” (JH Moiseikin). All these pieces will be exhibited in a special display case in the Main Foyer of the Convention&Exhibition center during Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, 2-6 March. It is among them 1 March 2017 the jury, headed by Lawrence Ma, will announce the winners in «Aesthetic Award», «Craftmanship Award», «Innovative and Uniqueness Award» nominations, as well as the owner of the Grand Prix and the title of Champion of Champions. Moreover, bracelet-transformer by Bronnitsy Jewellery Plant became one of the four nominees International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2017 awarded the title of Merit Design. The most important event that we expect this year - are the results of the participation of Russian companies in the leading international fairs. In March, more then 10 were represented in Hong Kong, they will participate in Baselworld, JCK Las Vegas, will arrive to Singapore, London etc. Today, companies such as Kabarovski, Sadko, Magic of Life, Vladimir Mikhailov define the face of successful Russian jewelry. In current situation it makes sense to foreign buyers to pay attention to the products of Russian companies and the possibility of its purchases. Then consider the possibility of increasing precious stones import to Russia, bearing in mind that they are absolutely essential for our domestic production. Stay with us! Yours sincerely, Alexey Shcherbina, Editor-in-Chief Professional quorterly SPRING, 2017 Magazine about Russian and CIS-countries jewellery market Publication of Jewellery Review Media Holding, MOSCOW Editor-in-Chief Dr. Alexey SHCHERBINA alex@j-r.ru Managing Editor Irina SLESAREVA irina@j-r.ru Experts&obcervers Julia Solodova Elena Sedova Vladimir Teslenko Barbara Wheat Cynthia Unninayar Design Sergey Khlebnikov 32A, Horoshovskoe highway, Moscow, 123007, Russia Tel.: +7 (499) 701-9914, (499) 709-1330 www.j-r.ru E-mail: red@j-r.ru, reklama@j-r.ru The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements. No part of Russian Diamonds & Jewellery may be reproduced without reference. This issue was authorized for publication on September, 2015 © Yuvelirnoye Obozreniye Registered by the Russian Federation Committee for the Press. Certificate No. 018300

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CONTENTS COVER CLUEV Jewellery House +7 (495) 984 97 90 info@cluev.ru cluev.ru HEADLINE 2R01K6E–TMVaiInEEWvents 6 Russian Jewelry Market: is revival possible? 50 DIAMONDS The Allure of Natural Color Diamonds 12 New Diamond Technology RECORDS 14 GEMS & PRECIOUS Who Caught the Australian Opals? 11 Made in Kaliningrad 16 This Sweet Word «Investment» World prices for semiprecious colored stones 18 GEMOLOGY Under the Full Moon GIT 2016 20 2 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7

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CONTENTS AWARD Russian Design in a Global Context Russian Line 2016 24 CLUEV 28 Elena Skvortsova 30 Andrey Mikhailov 32 Tatiana Tarasova & Natalia Tarasova 34 JH Moiseikin 36 Magic of Life 38 Nikolai Romanov 40 BRANDS Roberto Bravo 2 Lev Romanenko Studio 8 JH Sasonko introduce Vladimir Mikhailov 42 Mihail Chemiakin 44 FAI REPORT New Horizons of Amber Trip 46 JUNWEX: new favorites 48 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve Best watches 2016 60 DESIGN ● Bl ue & white ● More Colour! ● Pink Chic ● Gold Age 52 S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY 3

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MARKET VIEW 2016 – Main Events Top events of 2016 that have become the most significant consequences of the changes and had the greatest impact on the market development and will have far-reaching consequences, or caused an increased interest in its uniqueness International Grown Diamond Association is founded in the USA February 1 International Grown Diamond Association makes it aim to turn a global platform for insight and promotion of synthetic rough and polished diamonds, consumer and market education against their properties. More than 10 leading synthetics manufacturers, distributors and retailers took part in initiation of IGDA: Washington Diamonds, New Diamond Technology, Scio Diamond, Golcondia, Pure Grown Diamonds, Polished Diamond Company, Diamond Foundry, MiaDonna & Company and Chatham Created Gems & Diamonds. The first industry association of this type is meant to be the central unit for communications, education, development and progress within the industry. Famous Russian company New Diamond Technology joined the IGDA founders; in March 2016 it presented a blue synthetic diamond of 5.03 carats at Baselworld, and in October it raised the world record bar up to 15 carats (colorless diamond of G color). 6 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7

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“Kabarovsky Jewelry House” from Kostroma has become the bronze awardee of the world competition April 2MARKET VIEW Over a hundred of companies from different countries contended for the competition awards in nominated categories of jewels. Russian brand “Kabarovsky” presented the exclusive collection of golden jewels with baking enamel “Diamond Jeans”, that passed all preliminary rounds and was duly appreciated in the final by authoritative representatives of the world jewelry, design and architecture. A‘design award & competition is the major international prize in the field of design given for the best entries and concepts in regard to various products and services. The competition takes part annually with participation of designers from all over the world. A‘design award & competition emblem assigned by international experts, means the highest quality of the design presented. Such world-famous brands as Disney, Coca Cola, Pepsico, Nestle, Samsung, Lenovo, Nissan and many others took part in the competition in different years. Kabarovsky is listed in a register of world-class brands. 3 Russian companies are in the most prestigious hall of JCK Las Vegas Show June One of novations at the largest exhibition JCK Las Vegas Show-2016 in the USA was a new zoning that allowed positioning of various products types and categories in a clear way. At that, as many as five Russian companies were presented in the central and the most prestigious zone First Look, where exhibitors with creatively different jewels only are allowed to — Jewelry House “Kabarovsky” from Kostroma, «Sadko» from SaintPetersburg as well as Yakutian “Saha Taas”, “Kierge”, “Uzor Utum”; the latters occupied a collective stand under the common brand “Diamonds of Yakutia”. Russian companies turned out to be award-winning and arrived to Vegas through the program of Jewelry Exporters Club organizing halls at a number of world leading exhibition — in London, Hong Kong and Singapore. New opportunities for entering foreign markets with their high technology and competitive products opened up for leading Russian jewelry companies amid demand recession domestically and the ruble fall. The important result of Russian companies’ successful participation in JCK Las Vegas Show-2016 must be the first step in providing government grants to our exporters. S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY 7

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4MARKET VIEW Eurasian Diamond Center will be opened in Vladivostok September Andrey Zharkov, CEO of ALROSA informed on it in his speech at the opening of the II Eastern Economic Forum. EDC project contemplates creation of infrastructure cluster in the territory of free zone Vladivostok, uniting companies of diamond industry and oriented to export-import operations with AsianOceanian countries, first of all, with China, India, Japan and South Korea. The cluster contemplates location of diamond industry players (representatives of rough diamonds mining and sales companies, diamonds and jewelry manufacturers, gemological laboratories, banks, insurance companies, specialized carriers and customs brokers) and public officials (specialized customs post and state controllers) in its territory. Financing of the cluster is supposed by means of fund-raising from companies interested in location of their production and service-rendering enterprises in the territory of EDC. Lev Romanenko Studio Unique handmade amber jewellery Kaliningrad Russia +7 4012 69-3552 +7 902 216-9891 levromanenko41@gmail.com ADVERTISEMENT 8 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7

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October Diamonds have become 8% more expensive for Russian cutters 5MARKET VIEW During the autumn trade session ALROSA raised buyers gave preferential conditions to domestic market until prices for rough diamonds as high as 1.5% in average for all recently. Now the conditions are equal for all the clients. It is the clients as reaction to the demand increase in terms of the duty abolition that also explains unusually high results some positions. As for domestic market, the price increase of ALROSA sales in August showing 58% growth: everybody made around 8%. Such a sharp increase during the period knew the prices at the domestic market would become of traditional inactivity at the market is due to abolition of higher, and it was the last chance to buy low in August. That 66.5% duty for rough diamonds starting from September 1. is why many companies at the domestic market preferred to The duty considered by ALROSA in the price for foreign buy in stock. National award “Jewellers to the XXI century” is completed November Awarding of the competition winners held upon initiative of the Russian State Repository for Precious Metals and Gems with support of Ministry of Culture of the Russian Federation and with participation of Russian Jewellers’ Guild took place in the National Museum of History. Over 300 entries in 11 categories were presented to jury’s attention: necklaces, earrings, enamel ornamented rings, table garnish, icons and style-designed armament. Re-thinking of orthodoxy way and historicism were uniting features of many entries at the competition. The grand-prix went to Alexey Dontsov for his icon lamp in memory of the perished during Siege of Leningrad as well as for his ladle-boat “Saul’s Transfiguration”. The ring “Diaphragm” with complex moving mechanism by Vladimir Markin was pointed out in category “Reflection of present day in jewelry pieces”. The prize winner in category “Usage of alternative materials in own works” is the comb “Thursday Rain” by Rustam Yunisov; ornamental titanium earrings “Thistle 22” by Andrey Mikhailov and table design “Sandy Dog” by Alexander Beloborodov were noted in this category as well. Ethnic-style brooch “Evening in Byzantium” from collection “Journey to the East” by Eduard Nikitin is the prize-winner in category “Collection is the jeweller’s creative world”. According to the words of Andrey Yurin, the head of Russian State Repository for Precious Metals and Gems, the idea of the competition is to contribute in conservation of Russian traditions in fine arts and jewelry and their fusing with new directions in jewelry development, enhancing of artistic partnership between the country regions. S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY 9

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7MARKET VIEW “Russian Diamond Line-2016”: a new great success! Winners of the Moscow international competition of jewelry design that is held once in two years with participation of prize-winners of various contests in Russia and in post-Soviet countries, are traditionally delegated to take part in the world contest in Hongkong; its results will be announced on March 2, 2017. Grand-prix of the competition went to the set ”Firebird’s Feather” by jewelry house “Moiseikin” (Ekaterinburg) – for its custom design, perfect execution, using of exclusive stones and own patented setting Waltzing Brilliance. November In the first round of International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2017, during which examined 165 works from 27 countries, the eight finalists included three winner of Russian Diamond Line 2017: Necklace and ring «Firebird» (CLUEV, Moscow) Ring “For Form” (Natalia and Tatiana Tarasova, St. Petersburg) Set “Firebird Feather” (JH Moiseikin) Bracelet-transformer by Bronnitsy Jewellery Plant became one of the four nominees International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2017 awarded the title of Merit Design Besides them, the finalists steel necklace “Homage to the Renaissanse” (Alessio Boschi, Italy), earrings-kaffa “Earcuff ” (Kalpana Azar, India), necklace and earrings “Warm” (XiaoLei Feng, China), necklace “Rhythm” (Natsumi ODATE, Japan) and bracelet “A cause you believe in!” (Vaishal JARIWALA, India) All these pieces have already received the status of the winners and will be exhibited in a special display case in the main foyer of the exhibition center during Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, 2-6 March. It is among them 1 March 2017 the jury, headed by Lawrence Ma, will announce the winners in «Aesthetic Award», «Craftmanship Award», «Innovative and Uniqueness Award» nominations, as well as the overall winner - the owner of the Grand Prix and the title of Champion of Champions. The uniqueness of the situation lies in the fact that for the first time the «Big Eight» includes three representatives of one region and one contest - «Russian Diamond Line.» 10 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7

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WHO CAUGHT THE AUSTRALIAN OPALS? Opal‘s beauty amazes and fascinates lovers of natural gems its exotic and exclusive, nontransferable abundance of colors the entire spectrum of the rainbow. The hot and dry climate of South Australia is not a hindrance for daily descents into the mine for the miners who risk their lives every minute of your favorite exercises. Heavy and hard work is rewarded generously found wealth - precious opals. To date, the largest collection of opals supplies to the European market the company GNK OPALS. Founder and CEO Gennady Karpenko live in Coober Pedy, underground city. He is looking for opals and processes its. Collection GNK OPALS is very large and constantly updated. Black opal 62 carats - an amazing, unique beauty. The stone belongs to the category of collectible. Place of mining - Lightning Ridge. The most rare and expensive are black opals Rough high quality opals: bluish-green and crystal. Place of mining - Coober Pedy. GNK OPALS Australia. Теl.: + 61 423 45 8850 Russia. Теl.: + 7 985 367-1343 Ukraina. Теl.: + 38 096 834-0422 + 38 067 403-1483 Email: gnkopals@gmail.com ADVERTISEMENT

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COMPANY ThCeoAlollruDreiaomf Nonatdusral By Barbara Wheat Executive Vice President Natural Color Diamond Association Jewelry enthusiasts know that nothing compares to the beauty and allure of a natural color diamond. For discerning buyers who appreciate the combination of amazing sparkle and color, natural color diamonds are the perfect choice for any jewelry design, whether using melee or larger size stones. With the ever-increasing popularity of natural color diamonds, the Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA) was formed with a mission focused on education and promotion of these rare diamonds. The association’s website is the leading global authority on natural color diamonds for consumers and the trade. The educational focus of the association covers topics on the origin of diamonds, how the color is formed, and an explanation related to strength of color in natural color diamonds. Retailers and consumers can make informed buying decisions when they understand the concepts of color intensity descriptors of Light, Fancy, Intense and Vivid. Intensity of color is one of the most important factors in determining the value of a natural color diamond. The promotional activities conducted by NCDIA incorporate the educational aspects in highlighting the uniqueness of each variety of natural color diamond, such as with the rarity of colors, and the availability of them in certain sizes. Many consumers are conditioned to go for larger sizes in white diamonds, but have to be educated on the factors determining rarity in natural color diamonds, which are available in limited quantities compared to white diamonds. To help explain the rarity factor, which of course is directly related to price, Argyle Diamond 12 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7

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COMPANY Oval shaped 1.13 Fancy Intense Green Blue VS1 diamond set with pink and white melee in white and pink gold. By Rio Diamond Corp, New York A Fancy Red round diamond by Argyle Pink Diamonds, Australia Beautifully designed cuff in 18K-white gold with 57.68-carats of Fancy Color diamonds and over 12-carats of white diamonds. By Almor Design, New York A natural color pink diamond surrounded by pink diamonds set in rose gold and accented by white diamond melee. By Novel Collection, New York published this information about their production: “The Argyle Diamond Mine‘s annual production of pink diamonds, over half a carat, would fit in the palm of your hand. The larger, rare violet diamonds would barely fill a teaspoon.” Recent record-breaking sales of natural color diamonds at auctions around the world have helped spur the demand at retail stores. Record breakers include The Blue Moon diamond, a 12.03 carat natural blue diamond that sold for US$48 million in 2015. The Unique Pink, a 15.38 carat fancy vivid pink diamond, shocked the world when it sold for $31.6 million this year. Add to these phenomenal sales the influence of celebrity endorsements and you have the ideal combination of excitement for marketing programs to increase consumer demand for natural color diamond jewelry. With the positive market response to natural color diamonds, the NCDIA is confident that sales and demand will continue to increase. NCDIA membership is comprised of wholesalers and retailers in over 10 countries around the world, including in major trading areas of Antwerp, Hong Kong, London and New York. The majority of NCDIA members sell only natural color diamonds, but some do carry a line of treated diamonds. Keeping in line with the highest industry standards, any member who carries treated diamonds must provide complete disclosure information that is to be handed off as the diamonds travel through the supply chain. Visit the NCDIA website at www.ncdia.com; or contact Barbara Wheat at bwheat@ncdia. com for more information.  S P R I N G , 2 0 1 7 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY 13

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