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Scientific journal on agricultural food production on geographical indications - Editor Qualivita Foondation

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a window on gis world qualivita 2011 window on the world of pdo pgi and tsg agri-food products and on geographical indications worldwide daily news on pdo pgi and tsg qualigeo.eu journal editorial works the new opens a daily italian and english version available from october 2011 qualivita app

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mauro rosati director login cial dimension regional products as well as being what holds together many strategic themes such as health animal s wellbeing green economy local market biodiversity food safety and traceability are synonyms of quality both from a human and professional viewpoint and this is what we need to create the new world new ways the prevailing idea over these past years has been that the economic space for local products was limited compared with pre-crisis financial economy the marginal production and modest invoices did indeed give this impression the return to actual economies and the continuous food alerts in the world demonstrate how quality products can actually represent the future of the agro-industry which continues to work with undifferentiated agricultural products the same applies for the restaurant industry in both the high-end level and the more diffused multinational chains i always suggest to restaurateurs to use less accessories and marketing in favour of raw materials with a certificate of origin and to pay particular attention to local products only then can the idea of marginality be overcome dynamic europe in this first issue we have given space to political debates on the new quality regulations in which europe has been involved in for the last two years including an interview with the eu commissioner ciolo and other in-depth investigations it is a fact that the dynamism of quality constringes the continual revision of legal frameworks both for the markets and for the consumers needs it is the beginning of a profound change in european agriculture the post-2013 cap will inevitably dictate new guidelines and will focus on safety and traceability regulations it is a new commitment towards agro-food quality it s born i can hardly believe it a few years ago i would never have imagined a scientific journal dedicated entirely to pdo pgi tsg and international gi products yet here it is qualigeo.eu only two years after the publication of qualigeo atlas a european atlas of pdo pgi and tsg agri-food products a quarterly journal translated into four different languages and distributed to more than 10.000 addresses all over the world as well as being available through a mobile application for ipad this would not have been possible without the support of aicig and other international organizations that believed in our project demonstrating both a political and professional far-sightedness the excessive fragmentation of this sector has in fact always been an impediment for the development of gis the idea of putting input into the creation of new and ever expanding representatives of this sector also by using fundamental tools such as knowledge is a tangible sign of progress it is no longer just a handful of men but a system that is beginning to play as a team and this is a new signal that we must take into consideration dreaming of the new world qualigeo.eu will essentially deal with food geopolitics since this is the most important argument of our future the values and wealth of knowledge that gis bring with them are an essential starting point for change to happen up until a few years ago as far as regional products are concerned one had the impression of being in some kind of elite limbo suspended between folklore and gourmandise a collocation i have always considered wrong and that has greatly penalized the entire gi system the goal of this journal is to come out into the open to give room to new ideas to promote a network of information between stakeholders and consumers and to give more strength and visibility to geographical indications in order to assert a fair economic political and so-

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resting improves the flavour ssssssssst aged 9 to 15th months aged over 16th months riserva over 20 months grana padano is a versatile cheese that is delicious on its own with an aperitif can be enjoyed on a cheesboard served with pickles or chutney or included as an accompaniment to a variety of dishes aged from 9 to over 24 months grana padano s flavour changes from sweet and mellow to fruiter and grainer as the cheese matures 2

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contributors qualivita news journal title registered at the court of siena n° of registration 5 date of reg 18/02/2006 felice adinolfi associate professor of economics and rural valuation university of bologna alberto mattiacci full professor of management at sapienza university of rome director mauro rosati mauro@maurorosati.it editorial staff segreteria@qualivita.it elena conti martina lorenzetti federica oliva marilena pallai federica romano giovanni sogari ilaria tognarini arianna vannini editorial scientific committee riccardo deserti coordinator giorgio bocedi francesco ciani federico desimoni giuseppe dibisceglia salvatore martorana anne richard pier maria saccani layout and graphics grafica@qualivita.it irene bimbi niccolò bindi photos bruno bruchi cover picture and other photos advertising pr comunicazione@qualivita.it elena conti translations studio mvm and others printing tipografia gori prato italy circulation 7,500 hard copies 3,000 on cds publisher irene bocchetta eu protected food names manager adas bernard o connor nctm o connor associate and visiting professor at the bocconi university milan expert in geographical indications law angelo di mambro journalist expert in agriculture eugenio occhialini director of origen la revista del sabor rural alain farine director of the swiss association for pdo-pgi denis pantini economic researcher and journalist consultant to rural development agriculture and food industry economy daniele giovannucci co-founder and director of committee on sustainability assessment cosa melina puntoriero director manuelina culinary magdalena glodek head of geographical indications division ministry of agriculture and rural development poland claudia ranaboldo dtr-ic project researcher rimisp centro latinoamericano para el desarrollo rural dariusz goszczyski deputy director department of promotion and communication ministry of agriculture and rural development poland marjo särkkä-tirkkonen special planning officer university of helsinki/ruralia institute mikkeli irina kireeva lawyer at nctm o connor massimo vittori secretary general origin partners associazione italiana consorzi indicazioni geografiche piazza matteotti 30 53100 siena italy tel +39 0577 202545 fax +39 0577 202562 mail info@qualivita.it web qualivita.it qualigeo.eu chairman paolo de castro deputy chairman maurizio buffi councellors corsino corsini giovanni di stasio roberto bartolini fausto ligas stefano berni board of auditors claudio antonelli guido de giusti sergio carli secretary-general mauro rosati qualigeo.eu project organizer co-organizer associazione italiana consorzi indicazioni geografiche founders directorate-general for agriculture and rural development with the patronage the activities of foundation are supported by european commission co-financed by the european union directorate general for agriculture and rural development the measure has recived funding from the european union the sole responsability lies with the author of the communication or publication the commission is not responsible for any use that may be made of the information contained therein

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contents 6 gi-photo point queso de la serena pdo spain 6 10 europe new quality regulations interview with dacian ciolo the quality package production planning 10 15 18 22 people interview with giuseppe liberatore italy interview with ramón gonzález figueroa mexico 22 26 26 organization defra united kingdom 30 30 producers network los pedroches spain 34 34 product queijo serra da estrela pdo portugal 38 nation 38 44 47 49 51 poland a country aiming for quality quality products from nature to the table arts tradition and cuisine in the podhale region poland where honey finds its natural habitat interview with marek sawicki 44

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gi-legislation focus on swiss legislation 54 research 54 58 quality products and policies in the eu marketing lex marketing management for gis a real cultural challenge 62 58 food safety an essential requirement 66 62 melting pot interview with marion nestle usa 70 gi-web news 66 74 the website www.socopag.fr france expo news vision door news from gis world 70 78 81 74 overview analysis pdo pgi community register tsg community register 94 95 105 81 preview dossier on new registered products 107 94

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gi-photo queso de la serena pdo fiesta de la trashumancia queso de la serena pdo producers still following the ancient practice of transhumance through the streets of madrid with sheep belonging to the merinos race 6

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d es ignatio n of ect e d ot 7 in · ·p r

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point europe new quality regulations

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four proposals to simplify and acquire a more efficient system for the protection of geographical indications within the eu the european parliament is discussing the introduction of agricultural policies to optimize quality products.

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text angelo di mambro · original language italian · photos dg agri e xia eu quality a huge success that needs to be exported the situation in the wto is blocked moving on with new promotional measures interview with the eu commissioner dacian ciolo the quality of european products and the rich diversity of the continental agri-food offer are among the central elements in the agenda of dacian ciolo eu commissioner for agriculture and rural development the just-turned forty-two year old romanian ex-minister must carry out his duty in the midst of intense changes in european community policies it will be up to him to carry the cap post-2013 with a new financial framework in a rapidly changing world and to keep pace with global development due to emerging economies among the assets that europe can count on to compete in this context is its heritage of quality food products which may be effectively improved through recognition by international trade partners while the issue was merely hinted at in the quality package ­ a group of four measures for simplifying and rendering more efficient the eu system of geographical indication products was presented by the commissioner at the end of last year ­ new regulations for the promotion of agricultural products are in arrival the door the register of the european union s quality food products has exceeded a thousand products this shows that manufacturers appreciate the system in order to attain the recognition of geographical indications they invest efforts and resources how does the eu return this trust what protection does it offer in the noneuropean countries the european system of geographical indication was a major achievement ­ i dare say one of the most important successes of the union s history this is why for some years now the eu committee has been working to increase the protection and safeguard of the geographical indication outside of the union in the so-called third countries the first non-eu agreements made on this issue were those for wine and spirits for example i am referring to the agreements signed with switzerland australia canada and the united states and later with mexico and chile as far as food products are concerned one recalls 10 that under the free trade agreement made between south korea and the eu on july 1st 2011 an innovative convention on the protection of european gi products in that country will enter into effect and other agreements will follow the agreement has already been signed with switzerland although it has not yet entered into effect and is now only waiting for the green light from parliament also under the framework of the new quality regulations the commission has proposed to make funds available for defending european trademarks with geographical indications from abuse by the third countries furthermore to increase consumer familiarity with european gi products the eu has already launched various promotional campaigns geared towards important non-european markets such as japan and the u.s.a in conclusion i would like to emphasize that the commission is working on a review of the entire approach to the promotion of their agricultural products through a procedure that will be first described in a concrete manner with the publication of a green paper on the topic due to be released in mid-july it is in this area that we are dedicating particular attention to the issue of support for our gi products also in third countries but do the agreements that you mentioned work is protection of european products from imitation and counterfeit a reality the protection that arises from this type of an agreement is real here are a few examples after the agreements on wine with australia canada and the united states entered into effect violations regarding the products included in the protocol were no longer reported even the recent initiative that placed china and the european union in the spotlight for reciprocal recognition and the insertion of ten quality food products in the respective registers orients itself in this direction since its aim is to avoid inappropriate use of european geographical indications names at those latitudes however i would like to take the opportunity to show that ­ at least in respect to the

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the eu commissioner dacian ciolo with zhi shuping minister of china s general administration of quality supervision inspection and quarantine aqsiq more than one thousand registered ­ the european food products that bear the brunt of inappropriate name use are really very few essentially this concerns a few wines and spirits and some cheeses furthermore many of these cases regard the generic name use and mainly appear in countries that were european immigration destinations in the xix and xx centuries where emigrants brought their food traditions with them you brought up your visit to china and the 10+10 initiative in the west china is generally seen as a place that represents quantity rather than quality if not as a den of cheap imitations of anything and everything what china did you discover on your trip i was met with a country in which food quality is gaining an ever greater importance and this wasn t just my own impression seeing that i was accompanied by high level managers from various european companies specialized in gi products among which many italians the delegation s reactions were very positive one of the most interesting hypothesis that emerged from my visit was the brainchild of the various company representatives themselves an exchange of opinions on potential combinations of the respective promotional activities aimed at realizing a european style market basket of products which could bring together cheese ham olive oil wines and spirits the 10+10 project was based on individual 12 demands but has given everyone the chance to learn from different food quality recognition and certification systems that share the same fundamental objective at present negotiations for a broader agreement between china and the eu are underway if they are successful there will be many more european gi products that obtain actual protection in the chinese market china has enormous production volumes and even if we shift our attention to quality as in the european system ­ which is primarily composed of small companies ­ competing with the chinese giant any risks in sight the entire gi system does not revolve around the concept of volume but rather around that of quality if a company is able to produce large volumes while maintaining a level of high quality in line with market expectations i don t see anything wrong with that i don t believe it is risky for the eu to compete with chinese quality products on the contrary it is an important opportunity to cooperate in order to avoid competing with the conformity of the different quality systems the recognition of european gi products in china opens new opportunities for sales and for protection in the market currently are the conditions right for reaching a multilateral commercial agreement in the wto on geographical indication products point

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this debate is now taking place in the world trade organization nevertheless we must acknowledge that the situation is fairly stagnant on the issue of gi products there are deep disagreements between members of the wto on how to face the issue we are pursuing the goal of a multilateral agreement and we are making this known in all of the places in which we are negotiating on a bilateral level with china the mercosur countries with thailand recently we have addressed the argument in the framework of a possible bilateral agreement on free trade even at the summit with japan then will you continue to use the bilateral agreements strategy what are the next steps in this direction the protection of quality european products is an essential aspect of each negotiation that we are carrying out on free trade agreements and there are many under discussion ­ for example with the asean and mercosur countries or with india also there are specific agreements on the gi products such as that which has just been signed with switzerland or that is now being discussed with china some critics say it is precisely due to the sustained growth of the registrations that the european system of food certification loses credibility what is your reply to such criticism my response is that i totally disagree who would negatively judge the fact that there are millions of registered trademarks in the designated european union offices the constant increase in registrations merely demonstrates that the system is successful and brings benefits and then even just considering the process of expansion of the eu and the entry of twelve other member states into the union it was easy to predict an increase in the applications for the door to it seems undeniable to me that today many companies may use the message of geographical indication to obtain better prices for their products for example it has been proven that french gi cheese producers are able to achieve higher prices compared to those without this recognition of course in this respect it is necessary to admit that there is room for improvement because european marks are still not well-known in a number of member states in order to remediate this tendency the commission is seriously considering passing additional promotional measures in the coming years necessary measures because the pdo pgi and tsg register includes products from many small and medium companies that due to their structural size have difficulty accessing marketing tools and reaching global markets may we presume that among the new measures there is for example support for corporate marketing for now i can only say that the entire issue of marketing and promotional policies will soon be addressed and reviewed as i mentioned before it is a process that will begin in july with the publication of the green paper on promotion identity card name dacian ciolo place of birth zalu romania date of birth july 27th 1969 assignment european commissioner for agriculture and rural development education after graduating in agricultural studies he continued his studies in cluj rennes montpellier and rome professional experience under secretary of state for european affairs in 2007 and minister of agriculture of romania that same year since 2010 he is the european commissioner for agriculture and rural development in the barroso ii commission curiosities he arrived in brussels in 1997 for an internship at the directorate-general of agriculture and rural development of the european commission thirteen years later after various experiences in france and romania he was appointed commissioner the seven challenges for cap according to dacian ciolo food globalization environment the economic challenge the territorial challenge diversity of agriculture and policy simplification quality china cooperation world trade cap don t you think that up until today the pdo pgi and tsg system has functioned as a protection tool above all within the eu but that it has been less effective as a promotional and communicative tool how can we improve the latter aspect i don t feel that it is important to establish from the outset if the gi system works better in protective or in promotional action the system was conceived to respond to both of these the first is an element vital to guaranteeing protection from imitations whose value is inestimable as for the other aspect promotion is becoming an increasingly important marketing tool geared towards placing emphasis on quality and the tradition the product refers 13

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