p. 1

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt the project gutenberg ebook a voyage round the world vol i of by james holman this ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever you may copy it give it away or re-use it under the terms of the project gutenberg license included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.net title a voyage round the world vol i of author james holman release date june 5 2004 [ebook #12528 language english character set encoding us-ascii start of the project gutenberg ebook a voyage round the world vol i of e-text prepared by the project gutenberg online distributed proofreading team from images provided by the million book project note project gutenberg also has an html version of this file which includes the original illustrations see 12528-h.htm or 12528-h.zip http www.gutenberg.net/1/2/5/2/12528/12528-h/12528-h.htm or http www.gutenberg.net/1/2/5/2/12528/12528-h.zip file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 1 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 2

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt voyage round the world volume i including travels in africa asia australasia america etc etc from mdcccxxvii to mdcccxxxii by james holman r.n f.r.s etc etc 1834 man loves knowledge and the beams of truth more welcome touch his understanding s eye than all the blandishments of sounds his ear than all of taste his tongue akenside advertisement it is necessary to observe that this work is designed to extend to 4 vols to be published in regular succession each volume to embrace a distinct portion of the whole and to be complete in itself the entire publication will form a consecutive series of the author s voyages and travels round the world the present volume contains madeira teneriffe st jago sierra leone cape coast accra fernando po bonny calabar and other rivers in the bight of biafra prince s island ascension rio janeiro and journey to the gold mines file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 2 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 3

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt [note the beginning of this dedication was missing from the text that your majesty may long be spared to a nation that is so sensible of the influence of your majesty s exalted character with the most profound feelings of gratitude and devotion i have the honor to subscribe myself your majesty s most faithful servant james holman contents of vol i chap i passion for travelling author s peculiar situation motives for going abroad resources for the blind embark in the eden capt owen for sierra leone lord high admiral at plymouth cape finisterre arrival at madeira town of funchal wines of madeira cultivation of the grape table of exports seizure of gin fruits and vegetables climate coffee tea and sugar cultivation palanquin travelling departure from madeira chap ii teneriffe town of santa cruz female costume incident at a ball bad roads climate productions population of the canary islands imports and exports various qualities of the wines fishery leave santa cruz crossing the tropic of cancer shaving and ducking general remarks make st jago anchor at porto praya sickly season death of the consul and his wife consul s sister governor s garden and watering-place population of the island produce the orchilla weed its growth uses and varieties cause of fever departure for sierra file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 3 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 4

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt leone chap iii arrival at sierra leone mr lewis black washerwomen visitors on board capture of leopards mortality funeral of mr lewis education of native children regimental mess curious trials at a quarter sessions depredations of the kroomen causes of unhealthiness the boollam territory lieutenant george maclean s mission election of a king regent s speech macaulay wilson ceremonies of the coronation character of the boollams christian and mahommedan missionaries aspect of the country cession of boollam to great britain extraordinary trial for crim con news of the death of mr canning chap iv auction at sierra leone timber establishments in the river tombo bance and tasso islands explosion of a vessel at sea liberated africans black ostlers horses imported slave vessel colonial steam vessel road and street repairs continued rains suggestion for preserving the health of european seamen general views of the colony population parishes supply of provisions description of freetown curious letter from black labourers original settlers present inhabitants trade with the interior strange customs of native merchants anecdote of sailors injurious example of the royal african corps vaccination of natives medical opinion departure from sierra leone chap v cape st ann dangerous shoals old sailors liberia origin and history of the colony failure at sherbro island experiment at liberia difficulties encountered by the settlers differences with the natives final adjustment improving state of the colony laws and morals remarks on colonization chap vi file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 4 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 5

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt the kroo country religion of the kroo and fish men emigration of the natives sketch of their habits and customs purchase of wives the krooman s _ne plus ultra migratory propensities rogueries exposed adoption of english names cape palmas dexterity of the fishmen fish towns the fetish arrival at cape coast land with the governor captain hutchison cape coast mode of taking an airing-ashantee chiefs diurnal occupations school for native girls-domestication of females colonel lumley captain ricketts neglect of portuguese fortresses a native doctor chap vii recollections of the ashantee war battle of essamacow accession of osay aquatoo to the throne battle of affatoo investment of cape coast flight of the ashantees martial law proclaimed battle of dodowah ashantee mode of fighting death of captain hutchison chap viii embarkation departure for accra land route accra roads visit to danish accra dilapidations of the fortresses at dutch and english accra captive queen mr thomas park cause of his death unknown-departure for fernando po first view of the island anchor in maidstone bay early history of the settlement capt owen s expedition visited by the inhabitants site for the settlement determined author s mission to the king of baracouta visit of the king native costume ecstacy of the natives distribution of presents second visit to the king his majesty s evasive conduct-renewed interviews a native thief intended punishment cut-throat a native chief visit to king-cove purchase of land chap ix native simplicity resources of the blind royal village gathering of natives native priests royal feast inhospitable treatment-uncomfortable quarters vocabulary of the native language beauty of the female character women of fernando po anecdotes aspect of the country productions preparations for the settlement discovery of a theft mimic war customs native chiefs female on board monkey for dinner flogging a prisoner accident to a sailor a voyage of survey file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 5 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 6

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt round the island river named after the author geographical and meteorological observations insubordination a man overboard deserter taken death of the interpreter method of fishing visitors from st thomas ceremony of taking possession of fernando po interview with a native chief celebration dinner indirect roguery chief and his wife hospital near point william the guana mistake at sea-suggestions on the slave-trade fishing stakes schooner on a mudflat chap x slave canoe duke s pilot old calabar town consternation on shore and disappearance of the slave vessels fruitless pursuit of the slavers eyo eyo king eyo s brother old calabar festivals attempted assassination and duke ephraim s dilemma obesity of the king s wives ordeal for regal honours duke s english house coasting voyage to the bonny author discovers symptoms of fever the rivers of st nicholas sombrero st bartholomew and sta barbara the smokes capture of a spanish slave vessel in the river st john nun or first brass river discovered to be the niger natural inland navigation new calabar river pilot s jhu jhu foche island author sleeps on shore bonny bath interview with king peppel ceremony of opening the trade rashness of a slave dealer horrible fanaticism schooner at sea return to fernando po chap xi reverence for beards native shields petty thefts tornado season-author departs for calabar waterspout palm-oil vessels visit to duke ephraim escape of a schooner with slaves calabar sunday funeral of the duke s brother egbo laws egbo assembly extraordinary mode of recovering debts superstition and credulity cruelty of the calabar people to slaves royal slave dealer royal monopoly manner of trading with the natives want of missionaries capt owen s arrival visit creek town with king eyo the royal establishment savage festivities-calabar cookery old calabar river chap xii captain owen s departure runaway slave egbo again duke s sunday-superstitious abstinence anecdote of a native gentleman breaking file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 6 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 7

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt trade author s visit to creek town bullocks embarked departure from calabar chased by mistake dangerous situation mortality at fernando po detection of a deserter frequency of tornados horatio hove down-capture of a slave vessel loss of mr morrison another slave vessel taken landing a part of the slaves author s daily routine garden of eden monstrous fish continued mortality market at longfield chap xiii scarcity of provisions in fernando po diet of the natives their timidity its probable cause the recovery of a liberated african deserter departure from fernando po reflections on the uses of the settlement causes of failure insalubrity of the climate-probabilities of improvement arrival off the mouth of the camaroon river chase of a brigantine her capture her suspicious appearance-slave accommodations pirates of the north atlantic ocean prince s island visit to the governor drunken frolic of a marine provisions-delicious coffee account of the town population varieties of colour in the inhabitants west-bay inhospitality of the governor and merchants visit to a brazilian brigantine difficulty of obtaining a passage to angola departure of the emprendadora the eden leaves prince s island crossing the equinoctial line dolphin and flying-fish trade-winds ascension island at daybreak landing description of the settlement turtle goats flesh abundant poultry island game-aboriginal foes unfaithful friends gladiatorial sports privileges of settlers traffic roads water culture of soil produce-vegetables live stock population employments hours of labour-recreations departure from the island recollections of ascension on a former voyage dampier the navigator the variables an affidavit on crossing the line change of weather dutch galliot passage for the brazils parting of friends chap xiv dutch galliot an agreeable companion melancholy account of st jago-beauty in tears manner of obtaining salt and water at mayo pleasures of a galliot in a heavy sea dutch miscalculation distances an oblation to neptune and amphitrite new style melange devotion and _gourmanderie curious flying-fish weather whales cape pigeons-anchor off rio janeiro distant scenery custom-house duties hotel du nord rua direito confusion thrice confounded fruit girls not fair file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 7 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 8

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt but coquettish music unmusical or porterage with an obligato accompaniment landing-place an evening walk a bad cold job s comforter shoals of visitors captain lyon s visit and invitation to the author naval friends packet for england english tailors-departure for congo soco the party thoughts on self-denial-uncomfortable quarters changes of atmosphere freedom by halves or _left handed charity serra santa anna valley of botaes the ferreirinho or little blacksmith dangerous ascent of the alto de serra pest an universal disease an english settler rio paraheiba-valencia curiosity of the people unceremonious inquisitors comforts of a beard castor-oil for burning rio preta passports entrance to the mine country examination of baggage attention without politeness the green-eyed monster an old man would be wooing chap xv advantages of early travelling funelle a traveller stopped at a widow s gate bright eyes and breakfast smiles and sighs the fish river cold lodgings fowl massacre bad ways gigantic ant-hills-the campos insect warriors insinuating visitors tick the simpleton bertioga a drunkard cold shoulders mud church feasting and fasting or the fate of tantalus method in a slow march gentlemen hungry and angry no accommodation for man or horse a practical bull curtomi hospitable treatment at grandie horse dealer a chance purchase bivouac mule kneeling sagacious animal quilos a mist-gold-washing ora branca hazardous ascent of the serra d ora branca-topaz district a colonel the host capoa jigger-hunters mineralogical specimens mortality of animals pasturage account of ora preta gold essayed halt journey resumed arrival at congo soco travels etc etc chap i file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 8 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 9

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt passion for travelling author s peculiar situation motives for going abroad resources for the blind embark in the eden capt owen for sierra leone lord high admiral at plymouth cape finisteire arrival at madeira town of funchal wines of madeira cultiwition of the grape table of exports seizure of gin fruits and vegetables climate coffee tea and sugar cultivation palanquin travelling departure from madeira the passion for travelling is i believe instinctive in some natures we have seen men persevere in their enterprises against the most formidable obstacles and without means or friends and even ignorant of the languages of the various countries through which they passed pursue their perilous journeys into remote places until like the knight in the arabian tale they succeeded in snatching a memorial from every shrine they visited for my own part i have been conscious from my earliest youth of the existence of this desire to explore distant regions to trace the varieties exhibited by mankind under the different influences of different climates customs and laws and to investigate with unwearied solicitude the moral and physical distinctions that separate and diversify the various nations of the earth i am bound to believe that this direction of my faculties and energies has been ordained by a wise and benevolent providence as a source of consolation under an affliction which closes upon me all the delights and charms of the visible world the constant occupation of the mind and the continual excitement of mental and bodily action contribute to diminish if not to overcome the sense of deprivation which must otherwise have pressed upon me while the gratification of this passion scarcely leaves leisure for despondency at the same time that it supplies me with inexhaustible means of enjoyment when i entered the naval service i felt an irresistible impulse to become acquainted with as many parts of the world as my professional avocations would permit and i was determined not to rest satisfied until i had completed the circumnavigation of the globe but at the early age of twenty-five while these resolves were strong and the enthusiasm of youth was fresh and sanguine my present affliction came upon me it is impossible to describe the state of my mind at the prospect of losing my sight and of being as i then supposed deprived by that misfortune of the power of indulging in my cherished project even the suspense which i suffered during the period when my medical friends were uncertain of the issue appeared to me a greater misery than the file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 9 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 10

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt final knowledge of the calamity itself at last i entreated them to be explicit and to let me know the worst as that could be more easily endured than the agonies of doubt their answer instead of increasing my uneasiness dispelled it i felt a comparative relief in being no longer deceived by false hopes and the certainty that my case was beyond remedy determined me to seek in some pursuit adapted to my new state of existence a congenial field of employment and consolation at that time my health was so delicate and my nerves so depressed by previous anxiety that i did not suffer myself to indulge in the expectation that i should ever be able to travel out of my own country alone but the return of strength and vigour and the concentration of my views upon one object gradually brought back my old passion which at length became as firmly established as it was before the elasticity of my original feelings being thus restored i ventured alone and sightless upon my dangerous and novel course and i cannot look back upon the scenes through which i have passed the great variety of circumstances by which i have been surrounded and the strange experiences with which i have become familiar without an intense aspiration of gratitude for the bounteous dispensation of the almighty which enabled me to conquer the greatest of human evils by the cultivation of what has been to me the greatest of human enjoyments and to supply the void of sight with countless objects of intellectual gratification to those who inquire what pleasures i can derive from the invigorating spirit of travelling under the privation i suffer i may be permitted to reply in the words of the poet unknown those powers that raise the soul to flame catch every nerve and vibrate through the frame their level life is but a smouldering fire unquench d by want unfanned by strong desire or perhaps with more propriety i may ask who could endure life without a purpose without the pursuit of some object in the attainment of which his moral energies should be called into healthful activity i can confidently assert that the effort of travelling has been beneficial to me in every way and i know not what might have been the consequence if the excitement with which i looked forward to it had been disappointed or how much my health might have suffered but for its refreshing influence i am constantly asked and i may as well answer the question here once for all what is the use of travelling to one who cannot see i answer does every traveller see all that he describes and is not file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 10 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 11

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt every traveller obliged to depend upon others for a great proportion of the information he collects even humboldt himself was not exempt from this necessity the picturesque in nature it is true is shut out from me and works of art are to me mere outlines of beauty accessible only to one sense but perhaps this very circumstance affords a stronger zest to curiosity which is thus impelled to a more close and searching examination of details than would be considered necessary to a traveller who might satisfy himself by the superficial view and rest content with the first impressions conveyed through the eye deprived of that organ of information i am compelled to adopt a more rigid and less suspicious course of inquiry and to investigate analytically by a train of patient examination suggestions and deductions which other travellers dismiss at first sight so that freed from the hazard of being misled by appearances i am the less likely to adopt hasty and erroneous conclusions i believe that notwithstanding my want of vision i do not fail to visit as many interesting points in the course of my travels as the majority of my contemporaries and by having things described to me _on the spot i think it is possible for me to form as correct a judgment as my own sight would enable me to do and to confirm my accuracy i could bring many living witnesses to bear testimony to my endless inquiries and insatiable thirst for collecting information indeed this is the secret of the delight i derive from travelling affording me as it does a constant source of mental occupation and stimulating me so powerfully to physical exertion that i can bear a greater degree of bodily fatigue than any one could suppose my frame to be capable of supporting i am frequently asked how i take my notes it is simply thus i keep a sort of rough diary which i fill up from time to time as opportunities offer but not from day to day for i am frequently many days in arrear sometimes indeed a fortnight together but i always vividly remember the daily occurrences which i wish to retain so that it is not possible that any circumstances can escape my attention i also collect distinct notes on various subjects as well as particular descriptions of interesting objects and when i cannot meet with a friend to act as my amanuensis i have still a resource in my own writing apparatus of which however i but seldom avail myself as the process is much more tedious to me than that of dictation but these are merely rough notes of the heads of subjects which i reserve to expatiate upon at leisure on my return to old england file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 11 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 12

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt the invention of the apparatus to which i allude is invaluable to those who are afflicted with blindness it opens not only an agreeable source of amusement and occupation in the hours of loneliness and retirement but it affords a means of communicating our secret thoughts to a friend without the interposition of a third party so that the intercourse and confidence of private correspondence excluded by a natural calamity are thus preserved to us by an artificial substitute by the aid of this process too we may desire our correspondent to reply to our inquiries in a way which would be quite unintelligible to those to whom the perusal of the answer might be submitted this apparatus which is called the nocto via polygraph by mr wedgwood the inventor is not only useful to the blind but is equally capable of being rendered available to all persons suffering under diseases of the eyes for although it does not assist you to commit your thoughts to paper with the same facility that is attained by the use of pen and ink it enables you to write very clearly and legibly while you have the satisfaction of knowing that you are spared all risk of hurting your sight it is but an act of justice to refer such of my readers as may feel any curiosity on this subject to mr wedgwood for full particulars respecting his various inventions for the use of the blind having given these personal explanations rendered necessary by the peculiarity of my situation and the very general curiosity which appears to exist on the subject if i may judge by the frequency of the interrogatories that are put to me will now conclude my preliminary observations nor will i thee detain with poet s fictions nor oppress thine ear with circumstance and long exordiums here but place myself at once on board h.m.s eden at woolwich on the 1st of july 1827 having been previously invited to take a passage to the coast of africa by her captain w.f.w owen esq who was appointed superintendent of a new settlement about to be established on the island of fernando po the commission with which this gentleman was charged afforded him peculiar advantages as he was to retain the command of his ship independently of the commodore on the african station for the purpose of facilitating his operations in the island i had resolved to visit sierra leone and other places on the western coast of africa principally from an early anxiety i felt to explore that part of the world and also strange and paradoxical as it may appear for the benefit of my health that a man should visit sierra file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 12 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 13

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt leone for the benefit of his health seems to be as unreasonable as if he were to seek for the vernal airs of the south in the inclement region of siberia but i am strongly inclined to believe that the apprehensions of european travellers on this subject are often as fatal as the climate that produces them in my own case i was not only free from any apprehensions concerning fevers and those diseases which are incidental to a tropical climate but having been recommended to try the effects of a warm region i anticipated an improvement in my general health from a short residence at a spot which incautious modes of living in addition to the insalubrity of the climate have rendered fatal to so many of my countrymen at the same time i am not insensible to the fact that all europeans are more or less susceptible of those disorders which are prevalent within the tropics especially on the western coast of africa in batavia trincomalee and different parts of the west indies but it is equally certain that fear is a great predisposing cause of disease and that the despondency to which most persons give way while they are under the influence of its effects increases the mortality to a considerable extent it has been generally observed that those persons who happen to be so actively engaged in any engrossing pursuit as to have no leisure for the imagination to work upon their fears are less liable to the fever and if attacked are better able to encounter its virulence than the timid and cautious in the event of an attack if the patient keeps up his spirits and prevents desponding thoughts from occupying his mind there is every reason to hope for a favourable result-the sons of hope are heaven s peculiar care whilst life remains tis impious to despair there are of course some constitutions more susceptible of the disease than others and it may also be observed that young people are more exposed to danger than those who have passed the meridian of life we left woolwich on the following day july the 2nd for northfleet where we remained a week for the purpose of making observations regulating the chronometers &c we also took in our guns 26 in number of the following calibre 18 32-pound carronades 6 18-pound ditto and 2 long 9-pounders with a full proportion of shot this quantity of metal alone for the carriages had been previously taken on board and fixed at woolwich brought the ship bodily down in the water four inches drawing when on board 15 feet 2 inches forward and 15 feet 6 inches abaft we also received on the day after as much powder file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 13 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 14

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt as could be put in the magazines on monday the 9th we left our moorings and proceeded down the thames anchoring for the night on the following day we arrived in the downs where we remained for about six-and-forty hours and from thence proceeded down channel and anchored in plymouth sound on saturday the 14th of july immediately after which i accompanied my brother lieutenant robert holman r.n who came on board for me to his house at plymouth where i spent a very agreeable time amongst my old shipmates relatives and friends for the last few days indeed my enjoyment was marred by illness but that was merely the bitter which a wise providence mingles in the cup of life the period of my stay at plymouth happened to be one of general congratulation and excitement owing to the arrival of his present majesty then lord high admiral who came there on a visit of inspection his royal highness held regular levees which were numerously attended the opportunity to wait upon his royal highness was to me a source of sincere gratification of which i gladly availed myself but i must acknowledge that a faint hope arose in my mind that the peculiar circumstances in which i was placed might interest his royal highness on my behalf and lead to some change in my situation favourable to the objects i had so long cherished i ventured to indulge in the thought which perhaps i scarcely suffered myself altogether to define that i might be relieved from the obligations of my appointment at windsor by which i am under restrictions both as to time and space and be permitted to enjoy some equivalent consideration which would leave me free to prosecute the plans to which i had devoted the whole energies of my mind as it was i had only obtained permission to go abroad for the benefit of my health but the remedy was in itself an incitement to further travel so that i should no sooner have reaped the advantage of my leave of absence and with renewed health acquired an increased desire for exploring distant countries than i should be compelled to relinquish my undertaking and the apprehension of a sudden recall constantly presenting itself to my mind checked in a great measure the enjoyment of my pursuit but my sanguine wishes and unconfessed hopes faded like a dream and i turned again to the sea to contemplate the bounds that were placed to my ambitious projects had it been otherwise could i have followed unchecked the course of my own impulses i should not have circumscribed my plan to any precise limits but would have pursued my travels wherever the slightest point of interest encouraged me to proceed file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 14 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]

p. 15

file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt possibly it is better as it is i have much reason to be grateful for the protecting hand of providence that preserved me throughout my wanderings and had i been less restrained by the force of circumstances i might not now perhaps possess the power of recording the results of my researches in consequence of having been confined to my bed by severe indisposition i was unable to walk to the boat when the eden was ready to sail and had nearly lost my passage but my anxiety to proceed overcame all my difficulties and ill as i was i saved my distance by hastening in a coach to the waterside where captain owen had kindly provided a boat for my reception on the 29th we got under weigh at 9 a.m with a fresh breeze from the eastward gallant before the wind she goes her prow high bearing and disparting the blue tide that foams and flashes in its rage below meantime the helmsman feels a conscious pride and while far onward the long billows swell looks to the lessening land which seems to say farewell we did not long enjoy our easterly breeze for in the evening the wind became variable the rain fell in torrents accompanied with lightning and thunder and the night was dark and dismal with an irregular sea which made the ship very uneasy then followed one of those scenes of confusion which can be witnessed only on shipboard the creaking of timbers as they were strained by the conflict of the elements the uproar of a multitude of voices the ludicrous accidents arising from the pitching and rolling of the vessel things breaking loose in all directions chests flying from side to side crockery smashing people hallooing others moaning and groaning accompanied with frequent evomitions and occasionally a general scream from some extraordinary crash with tumultuous noises of this kind i was entertained as i lay on my bed not from sea-sickness but from previous indisposition towards morning the wind settled in the n.w blowing very strong and the eden continued rolling a great deal the whole day this breeze fortunately kept up the two following days when the weather became very fine and the wind light and variable the whole of this day thursday august 2nd we were in sight of cape finisterre on sunday the 5th the weather was very fine and warm with a moderate breeze we had eleven sail of vessels in sight the greater part of which from file c new%20folder/books/12528.txt 15 of 29111/5/2005 1:13:46 pm

[close]