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AUTUMN 2015 16+ ESTET & GEVORKYAN Hong Kong Jewellery &Gems Fair-2015 Booth 3F424 Opals: Australian VS African Hong Kong Jewellery &Gems Fair-2015 Amber in a new light Russian women choose colored stones Booth 5C117 Trendbook What is the focus? ADVERTISEMENT www.fresh925.ru www.fresh925.ru

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October 2 - 5

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Set Treasure of the Valkyrie Shining of topazes, underlined by the sparkle of diamonds, against the unique pattern in gold on enamel — like magical Northern lights appeared in the sky from the beauty and the majestic light of the Valkyries, chosen ones of Gods. . . Necklace, earrings, ring with diamonds and topazes in white enamel and yellow gold. Diamonds — 6,97 ct. Topazes — 78,6 ct. 14K Gold — 129,68 g. JeweLers are MaDe in a singLe copy — there is onLy one chance to buy this set! Magic of Life JeweLLery coMpany in rostov-on-Don: 234 Tekucheva St, Rostov-on-Don, Russia, 344018, tel.: +7(961) 319-17-47, +7(918) 569-80-24, e-mail: sale@magic-of-life.ru Magic of Life JeweLLery coMpany in new york: 62 West 47th Street, Ste. 906E, New York, NY, 10036, tel. +1513/259-9343, e-mail: ibgoitman@gmail.com

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ADVERTISEMENT e one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations. Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action. MARCH 17 – 24, 2016 BASELWORLD.COM

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Professional quorterly autumn, 2015 Magazine about Russian and CIS-countries jewellery market Publication of Jewellery Review Media Holding, MOSCOW he advent of the new autumnseason was marked by the global jewelery market for a number of significant changes in its various segments. As for Russia, the decline in sales of jewelry in almost 50% led to the withdrawal from the market of a number of industrial and wholesale companies, suspension of production, further transition to the silver. By the autumn there were strong changes in the rating of the largest Russian manufacturers (p.34). In the first place for the production of both gold and silver jewelry factory is «Diamant» from the Kostroma region (TM Sokolov). But even in such difficult situation leading Russian companies continue to develop new technologies, to create modern design, seek to enter foreign markets. For example, in March 2015 at Hong Kong Fair attended by more than 10 Russian companies. Most of them work within the Jewelry Exporters Club, which was founded in 2014 and provides discounts according special agreements with the operators of these fairs, as well as a set of services. For example, Almaz-Holding Company after the success at JCK Las Vegas Show2014 (the important contract was signed with the customer from New York) this year successful exhibited with JEC in Las Vegas again. This month, in Hong Kong Jewelry&Gem Fair will participate Fresh Jewelry, ESTET, Magic of Life, Centrumix companies (p.6-9). On the other hand, in January 2017 Russia, in accordance with the WTO agreement, will be reduced from 20% to 10% import duty on jewelry, and it gives a good chance of entering the Russian market for foreign brands. Changes occur in the market of B2B exhibitions. Starting 2014, METS (p.44) will have the new format of ‘T-GOLD + METS PAVILION’ and will become an integral part of HKTDC’s Hong Kong International Jewellery in March 2016. The new brand is extraterritorial, T-GOLD + METS Pavilion can be deployed within any jewelry fair, from which all will benefit. Here is another example. After successful first edition of VICENZAORO Dubai which took place on 23-26 April, Corrado Facco said: «We hope that VOD will be one of the world’s top five events” We wish success to all new projects. We believe that success comes to those who aspire to it, and we hope that in new season the success will be accompanied by all readers of Jewellery Review and Russian Diamonds & Jewellery magazines. . Stay with us! Yours sincerely, Alexey Shcherbina, Editor-in-Chief T Dear colleagues! Editor-in-Chief Dr. Alexey SHCHERBINA alex@j-r.ru Managing Editor Irina SLESAREVA irina@j-r.ru Experts&obcervers Mikhail Povarennykh Elena Sedova Vladimir Teslenko Design Sergey Khlebnikov 32A, Horoshovskoe highway, Moscow, 123007, Russia Tel.: +7 (499) 701-9914, (499) 709-1330 www.j-r.ru E-mail: red@j-r.ru, reklama@j-r.ru The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements. No part of Russian Diamonds & Jewellery may be reproduced without reference. This issue was authorized for publication on September, 2015 © Yuvelirnoye Obozreniye Registered by the Russian Federation Committee for the Press. Certificate No. 018300

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What do they buy in Russia? AUTUMN 2015 AUTUMN 2015 HEADLINE Russian companies at Hong Kong Jewellery &Gems Fair-2015 Magic of Life: We agree only on ultimate success Booth 4R214 1 ESTET & Gevorkyan. Russia’s first family brand 6 Fresh Jewelry is really Premium class! 8 Russian Seasons of Elton / Centrumix company RKET VIEW y… 16+ ESTET & GEVORKYAN Hong Kong Jewellery &Gems Fair-2015 Booth 3F424 CONT E NT S Opals: Australian VS African Hong Kong Jewellery &Gems Fair-2015 Amber in a new light Russian women choose colored stones Booth 5C117 TRENdbOOK What is the focus? more about Russia’s first family rand at HK September Jewelry Gem Fair booth #3F424 ADVERTISEMENT yanjewelry 5 ADVERTISEMENT www.fresh925.ru www.fresh925.ru Бестселлеры 2014 COVER FRESH Jewelry company, Hong Kong Jewellery &Gems Fair-2015 exhibitor Booth 5C117 10 www.fresh925.ru GEMS & PRECIOUS GEMOLOGY Opals: Australian vs African 12 Who caught the Australian opals? 17 News Synthetics is a champion of market? 18 19 4 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y AUTUMN, 2 0 1 5

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MARKET Report Crisis can not see? Valery Kochetkov, Lazurit K 22 Loyalty program as a marketing «crisis tablet» 24 Russian women choose colored stones 26 Company Krasnaya Presnya is expanding its market share 28 Nevohim offers new technology 30 Jewelry Exporters Club 40 The leadership of American market. JCK Las Vegas Show-2015 41 METS 2015: planning on a new format, a new international brand 44 The main platform for market entry of Kazakhstan Amber: in a new light Alatyr 2015 CONT E NT S 46 48 DESIGN T re n dbook 52 Sisom Logistic: it is easy to work with us 31 Favorit. The really international brand News Gabilo Kabirski FAIRS Corrado Facco: «VICENZAORO Dubai will be one of the world’s top five events” 38 32 34 35 36 ● Field Sage ● Ripe Grapes ● Fresh Mint ● «Dusty» Sugar ● Red Wine ● The light lavender ● Red Coral ● Sea Tide ● Ash Rose ● River Pebbles ● Golden Sand We invite you to cooperate 64 5 AUTUMN, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y

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Beyond just jewelry… Family celebrations, major life events… The happy moments are so evanescent… An opportunity to cherish and remember, an opportunity to let your care reach BEYOND… To fill one’s life with magic as the eyes of the beloved sparkle ablaze with joy, to let them experience unforgettable emotions, overwhelming happiness and love… Russia’s first family brand GEVORKYAN gives you all this in the form of magnificent jewels that can be passed down to the next generation together with the family legends and the precious memories of loved ones. GEVORKYAN jewelry pieces from 19 designer collections are winners of prestigious international jewelry competitions. Ring «SWAN» gevorkyanjewelru.ru Tel.: +7(495) 988 77 55 Learn more about Russia’s first family jewelry brand at HK September Jewelry and Gem Fair booth #3F424 Founded in 1991 by Gagik Gevorkyan, Estet Jewellery House is one of Russia’s leaders in the jewelry industry. Estet presents you with 15 exceptional collections. Each of them has its own idea at the heart that is lovingly embodied by our ingenious craftsmen. The variety of styles and materials gives everyone a chance to find their gevorkyanjewelry.ru @gevorkyanjewelry very own piece of jewelry. Tel.: +7(495) 988 77 55 Collections constantly expand to satisfy clients’ preferences and stay abreast of the latest trends. We create all our jewelry using only high-quality raw materials and innovative technologies. Earrings «CHINA» www.estet.ru Tel.: +7(495) 988 77 55

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15) September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (18 - 22 Sept 2015) Hall 3FG Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre 3F241 3F242 3F243 Extenda 3F238 3F236 3F435 3F433 Food & Area Beverage s Area Food & Beverages Cafeteria South Africa Ring «Bouquet» 3F735 Zone C France 3F319 3F424 Russia Hong Kong Ho 3F733 3F734 Ho 3F317 3F417 3F313 3F315 3F415 3F727 3F725 3F723s Ho 3F732 Beyond just jewelry… 3F517 3F731 3F729 3F729 3F730 3F728 3F726 3F724s 3F311 We invite you to our ВОOTH 3F424 South Africa ne A Germany USA 3F709 3F720 Ho 3F707 Ho 3F712 Ho 3F701 Ho 227 227 258 Indonesia Learn more about Russia’s first famil jewelry brand at HK September Jewel and Gem Fair booth #3F424 one A 3M222 3M221 3M225 gevorkyanjewelry.ru @gevorkyanjewelry Tel.: +7(495) 988 77 55 Ring «Zebra»

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The range of each of the third Russian jewelry store can be seen stylish and modern jewelry of Fresh Jewelry - the leading domestic supplier of silver jewelry. The company is actively and successfully developed since 2010 and has recently mastered its own production base in India. The dynamic development, introduction of new technologies, regularly updated collection, daily laborious work of highly skilled professionals, all this is the main goal Fresh Jewelry - bring joy to customers! Collections with semi-precious natural stones consistently popular with wholesale and retail customers, so that even in times of crisis Fresh Jewelry has no plans to change the range, and this year will present new collections of semiprecious stones - amethyst, tourmaline and topaz. For many years the company has earned a reputation as a reliable partner in Russia and abroad. To build a fair and mutually beneficial relationship, Fresh Jewelry management Earrings: Amethyst, weight 8,15 g onstone, weight 26.16 g Necklace: Morgan, amethyst, mo

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very carefully builds pricing policy. Today, the most favorable offer is to provide a deferred payment with the preservation of all discounts, support across the board and the exchange of goods. Working with partners, Fresh Jewelry always used the principle of individual approach, regardless of whether it is a similar store or a large retail chain. There are equally welcome everyone! The full range can be found on the website. Better yet, come to the Hong Kong Gems and Jewelry Fair, from 18 to 33 September. Booth number — 5C117 Ring: prasiolite, green onyx, tsavorite, pink quartz,weight of 4.5 g Earrings: prasiolite, green onyx, tsavorite, pink quartz, weight 11,3 g Earrings: Amethyst, top www.fresh925.ru ADVERTISEMENT az, iolite, spinel, weight 9.7 g

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FAIR Russian Seasons of Elton / Centrumix company Fine jewelry accessories - is not only an indicator of status, lifestyles and aesthetic preferences. We buy jewelry to emphasize our individuality and create an unexpected image. Jewelry manufacturers try to win the hearts of customers and develop more innovative models, giving them the opportunity to change ourselves and surprise others. One of the most interesting in this regard is well-known Russian company Elton. The grand success achieved this year - a worthy reward staff, which is headed by Alexander Kanyuchka - one of the most influential and respected professionals at Russian and post-Soviet jewelry market Anna Dmitrieva - jewelry designer She graduated from the St. Petersburg Art-Industrial Academy in 1998, then worked for several years at the best enterprise of Ukraine - Kiev Jewelry Plant. Currently, the designer generates a range of creative and engaged in Centrumix Trade LLC, Kiev branch of Elton company. Anna gained professional prominence, becoming a multiple winner of the «Best Jewelry of the Year» at JewellerExpo Ukraine; In 2005 she became a laureate of International Jewellery Fair ARU in Kazakhstan, and in 2014 - the Swarovski contest during Kostroma Jewellery Festival. As the winner of the Moscow International Award «Russian Line-2014» was delegated to the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2015 in Hong Kong, where her piece «The Russian Seasons» was named among the winners Ring «The Russian Seasons» 10 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y AUTUMN, 2 0 1 5

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CO MPAN Y ELTON - one of the largest Russian manufacturers and wholesale suppliers of jewelry on the market since 1993. The company has its own production, as well as an official distributor of «Krastsvetmet» (Russia) and Tallinn jewelry factory “Yuveel” (Estonia). Affiliates Elton are situated in Moscow, Rostov-on-Don, Omsk, Yekaterinburg, Vladivostok. Atelier Shamira - the new project of ELTON Group, which was successfully implemented five years ago. This branch develop range of exclusive jewelry Russian patterns - for customers, who appreciate the rare gems and design. In exclusive collections are used quality gems from around the world - large rubies colored pigeon blood, Paraiba tourmaline, tanzanite blue etc. ELTON has real professionals and always open doors for young and talented designers. This year the ring-transformer Russian Seasons by leading artist Anna Dmitrieva became the winner of two prestigious contests - Russian Line in Moscow and the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award in Hong Kong. Centrumix Trade LLC, Kiev branch of ELTON Group, this year participates in Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (18-22 September 2015) as an exhibitor, and visitors will be able to see on its booth 3F432 not only the winner of the global design competition, but also other wonderful pieces of this international brand. ADVERTISEMENT AUTUMN, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 11

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GE M S On the now active world famous precious opal deposits and their genesis you can know from the article written by the specialists from the Vavilov Institute for Natural Science History and Technology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Joint-Stock Company “World Gem Group”, MIKHAIL POVARENNYKH, mpovarennykh@mail.ru, litangem@mail.ru, and Fersman Mineralogical museum, Russian Academy of Sciences, ELENA MATVIENKO, ematvienko@mail.ru OPALS: AUSTRALIAN VS AFRICAN ELENA MATVIENKO Beginning with the research work connected with precious opals investigations, we were greatly amazed by the fact that in mineralogical glossaries and special literature their features have been described very sparingly and carefully. And we wondered, what was the reason of such carefulness. It turned out that only reason was the rarity of their occurrence in nature , and, correspondingly, high price of pieces even in unprocessed form, as well as the unwillingness of their owners to pass the precious stones for any sort of investigations (destructive at times). We were lucky in this respect, and we could make a comparison of petrophysical features of precious opal samples from Australia and Africa due to the fact that either we`ve gathered them ourselves or they were presented to us by private collectors. For a start, the compared precious opals drastically differ from each other in their origin: Australian opals in overwhelming majority are connected with sedimentary weathering crust genesis, and Ethiopian – with lowtemperature hydrothermal post-volcanic genesis. Hitting the high spots and summarizing, one may say that the latter has been forming and «raping» from gel station silica during more prolonged period of time in quite «human being», room temperature (+10÷+40  ˚С), and the former – in relatively more quick temp and under less comfortable temperatures +70÷+95  ˚С. These differences in genesis conditions subsequently manifest itself in their features, including such important features for precious stones description as hardness, porosity, convenience for processing (capability to be polished and faceted), firmness while temperature and humidity jumping … The market price of precious opal is influenced by many factors, from which the last but not the least is the fashion as a resultant of annoying PR, overabundant diversified supply, MIKHAIL POVARENNYKH dumping on-site mining purchase prices. Thereupon it may be reminded how at the end of XIX – beginning of ХX centuries the European (the so called Hungarian) precious opals have been irreversibly put out from the Western world market. On the one hand, the volume of better quality precious stones from more rich Australian opal deposits rapidly grew up. This better quality genetically depends on the combination of more various, contrasting, and capricious play of colour – irisation – with higher hardness and lower water content. On the other hand, at the same time such narrowmindedness on the supposedly ability of opals «making souls gloomy» to cause disaster to their owners were widespread. These not grounded fears, in particular, kept discussing in the novel by Walter Scott «Charles the Brave, or Anne of Geierstein - The Maiden of the Mist» and tragedy by Oscar Wild «Salome». And besides that at Eastern world jewelry market the heightened interest to a precious opal kept still constant for many centuries (because you know, that even the name «opal» originated from the Sanskrit «upala» – gemstone). And what have we clarified while comparing petrophysical features of Australian and Ethiopian precious opals that should directly influence their market? During the microscopic investigations even under moderate magnification we have revealed that Australian precious opals – sedimentary weathering crust opals – manifested much more variable mosaic irisation pattern than Ethiopian ones generated while volcanic rocks cooling and low-temperature hydrothermal alteration. And if the latter contained only silica SiO2 mineral group inclusions (chalcedony, tridymite, and cristobalite) (Fig. 1), the former – Australian – contained more various spectrum of mineral inclusions. AUTUMN, 2 0 1 5 12 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y

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G E MS Fig. 1. Elongated cylindrical form inclusions within the opal specimen (Wolo, Ethyopia). Such «hairy» cylinders consist from chalcedony. Photoe by B. Rondeau; magnification 40х (from Rondeau et al., 2010). Not only silica group minerals may be among these inclusions (Fig. 2), but K-bearing halite as a resultant representative of the salt kept safe from the former ancient rather cold (about +10 ˚С) shallow sea that splattered over Australian continent, as well as clay minerals such as halloysite (Fig. 3), and small fragments of silicified fossil wood (Fig. 4) or other ancient plants. Fig. 3. Inclusion of brownish coloured halloysite and К-bearing halite in cabochons of precious opal (Lightning Ridge, state New South Wales, Australia). Size up to 0.5 cm. Passed for investigations by collector Vladimir Tarasov, Moscow). Fig. 2. Micron-sized chalcedony inclusion of pipe-like form in precious opal (Lightning Ridge, state New South Wales, Australia). Image in backscattered electrons (BSE). Scanning electron microscope LEO SUPRA 50VP, Center of multiple-access, Chemical Department, Lomonosov Moscow State University Fig. 4. Inclusion of silicified wood with well pronounced cell inner fabric (Lightning Ridge, state New South Wales, Australia). Image in BSE. Scanning electron microscope LEO SUPRA 50VP, Center of multiple-access, Chemical Department, Lomonosov Moscow State University. AUTUMN, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 13

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