Russian Diamonds & Jewellery

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Журнал В2В для специалистов ювелирной отрасли

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1/spring 2015 16+ Russian design is number one! International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2015 Trendbook Vlada Fyodorova: Russian Market Directory «Successful business is built on trust». P. 32 JCK Las Vegas Show-2015 Almaz-Holding Booth B2434a. P. 36 ADVERTISEMENT


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Москва, +7 499 709-1635 ADVERTISEMENT


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Professional quorterly spring, 2015 Magazine about Russian and CIS-countries jewellery market Publication of Jewellery Review Media Holding, MOSCOW Dear colleagues! Editor-in-Chief Alexey SHCHERBINA, Ph Doctor (History) T he first half of 2015 for the Russian jewelry industry has been very difficult. After the December peak sales amid ruble‘s devaluation, in the first quarter sales fell compared to 2014 by 40% The main reason of the crisis are the EU and USA sanctions. The fact that the jewelry industry, like no other, need bank credites: the raw materials for jewelry production are very expensive, and the average implementation period for jewelry - not less than 6 months (even in good times). In recent months, bank resources have become much more expensive. But even in such difficult situation leading Russian companies continue to develop new technologies, to create modern design, seek to enter foreign markets. For example, in March 2015 at Hong Kong Fair attended by more than 10 Russian companies. Almaz-Holding Company after the success at JCK Las Vegas Show-2014 (the contract was signed and the first batch of jewelry has already been sent to customer from New York) this year will exhibit in Las Vegas again (p. 36). On the other hand, in January 2017 Russia, in accordance with the WTO agreement, will be reduced from 20% to 10% import duty on jewelry, and it gives a good chance of entering the Russian market for foreign brands. In this sense, it is interest to see any select leading retailers, which is published in the Directory section. In this case we advise to pay special attention to wholesalers companies Fresh Jewelry and Elton (pp. 14-15, 32-35), who have extensive experience working with foreign partners, and enjoy great prestige in Russia and postSoviet countries. For us it has become a tradition to receive good news from Hong Kong, where in March this year was summed up next International Jewellery Design Excellence Award, which aimed winners of our contest Russian Line-2014. In previous years, our designers became the winners of IJDEA, but now it was established an outstanding record: in competing for the highest honour Russian designers Anna Teplinskaya and Timofey Teplinskiy‘s ring design Existence surpassed other international competitors, and won the Champion of Champions and Aesthetic Award also!. We believe that success comes to those who aspire to it, and we hope that in 2015, the success will be accompanied by all readers of Jewellery Review and Russian Diamonds & Jewellery magazines. Stay with us! Yours sincerely, Alexey Shcherbina, Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Irina SLESAREVA Experts&obcervers Elena Sedova Vladimir Teslenko Design Sergey Khlebnikov Advertisement Division Marina Shchyolokova 32A, Horoshovskoe highway, Moscow, 123007, Russia Tel.: +7 (499) 701-9914, (499) 709-1330 E-mail:, The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements. No part of Russian Diamonds & Jewellery may be reproduced without reference. This issue was authorized for publication on May, 2015 © Yuvelirnoye Obozreniye Registered by the Russian Federation Committee for the Press. Certificate No. 018300


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HEADLINE 1/spring 2015 1/spring 2015 16+ CONT E NT S Russian design is number one! International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2015 HIBITION une, 2015 TRendbook Vlada Fyodorova: «Successful business is built on trust» N E VA D A Russian Market Directory Almaz-Holding JCK Las Vegas Show-2015 Booth B2434a Russian design is number one! International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2015 Company RKET VIEW 4 COVER Giedymin Jablonski: «Russian school represents a very high level of professional 10 skills and traditions» German Kabirski: «Russia – is very talented country» Russian Seasons of Elton company On the cover jewelry of the company FRESH Jewelry ADVErTisEMEnT 12 14 GEMS & PRECIOUS REPORT Jewelry community concerned CIBJO Congress 16, 39 AEC region justifies the forecast of renowned expert iCa Congress People value and buy beauty iCa Congress 2 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 5 20 22


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MARKET Company Classic & Tradition Gwenny Tam Invitation from Magic of Life Vlada Fyodorova: «Successful business is built on trust» FRESH Jewelry 26 30 DESIGN T re n d b o o k 40 CONT E NT S ● The sky in the palm ● Closer to the Sun ● The Cherry Garden ● Underwater world ● Black magic ● One plus one 32 Three arrows Vicenzaoro Dubai New Super Show‘s Start 48 The flagships of Russian jewelry sector hope of success in Las Vegas Almaz-Holding company 36 RETAIL 54 Russian Jewellery Market 2015 Directory Retail 58-65 Producers 66-75 The main platform for market entry of Kazakhstan The 24th International Jewellery Fair «Aru 2015» 78 SPRING, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 3


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HEA DL I N E The unprecedented success of Russian design Winner of the Russian Line Award became the absolute winner of the prestigious world competition In March in Hong Kong were announced the results of global International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2015*, during which were examined 191 pieces from 31 countries. From Russia at this competition were winners of the Russian Line Jewellery Award-2014 held by the Jewellery Review Magazine Grand Prix and the title of Champion of Champions got the ring Existence by Almaz-Holding company (the artist Anna Teplinskaya, designer Timofey Teplinsky). This victory is unprecedented because for the first time in the IJDEA‘s history the best piece at the same time became the winner in the second most important category - The aesthetic impression. Speaking of this masterpiece, the Chairman of the jury Lawrence Ma stressed his conceptual, which is now coming to the fore in jewelry design. In piece-laureate can be seen an evergreen tree of life and a comet, that once brought it to the Earth, and yet - masterfully played up the idea of living stone girth hands. Eyes feel as if the whole structure is pulsating like a heart. Anna eplinskaya says: «I think that I, as the author of piece, was almost impossible ... Ring Existence demanded that I concentrate all life force. The image of the exclusive jewelry often comes from the gem, and the ring Existence is no exception. We used a unique top-notch fantasy tourmaline and diamonds arranged in such a way as to emphasize the greatness and the unusual shape of the central gem. The victory of the more honorable that International Jewellery Design Excellence Award is a «Competition among Competitions»: it involved the winners of national and regional contests. Hence the title of the Grand Prix - «Champion of Champions». Very competent jury of IJDEA, which included Lawrence Ma, Chairman of HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show-2015 Fair Organising Committee; Roberto Coin, President and Owner of Roberto Coin S.P.A. from Italy; Carina Lau, International-renowned Award Winning Actress; Champion of the Champions & Aesthetic Award Ring «Existence» Designers Anna Teplinskaya and Timofey Teplinskiy. Almaz-Holding company The winner of «Russian Line Award-2014» Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director; Sarah Sevier, Head of Buying & Brand Development of Victoria and Albert Museum from the United Kingdom; Juliet WEIR-de La Rochefoucauld F.G.A., Jewellery writer from France; Louisa Lo, Associate Director and Client Advisory of Christie’s China; and Barney Cheng, Couture Designer of Yenrabi LTD. In the category «Innovative and unique design» declared the winner of the necklace Motion by designer Natalie Fung Yin Ling from Hong Kong, in the category «Craftmanship» - ring Empire by Michael Veggenmann from Germany. Honorary Prize «for outstanding design» *The biennial IJDE Award creates a platform to honour creative and eminent jewellery designers from around the world, and provides an opportunity for international jewellery designers to exchange experiences, expertise and craftsmanship in competing for the highest honour – Champion of the Champions. 4 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 5


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H E AD L IN E was awarded the ring-transformer Russian Seasons by designer Anna Dmitrieva from Kiev, working in the Moscow company Elton. Ring Ancient Charm of Mountain (Ksidong Kai, China), necklaces Sakura (Kazuyo Ishikawa, Japan) Ring Reflection (Seyed Mohammad Mortazavi, Iran), the ring Air (Mivako Yokota, Japan). The uniqueness of the situation and the fact that for the first time in the «Big Eight» were two representatives of one region and one competition – the Russian Line. Prizes «for excellent design» got 4 more decorations - from Italy, Turkey, China and Iran. Innovative and Uniqueness in Design Award Necklace «Motion» Designer Natalie FUNG Yin Ling (Hong Kong) Company Сhow Tai Fook Jewellery, Ltd. Winner «The 15th Hong Kong Jewellery Design competition-2014» Pieces-laureates were exhibited in a special display case in the main foyer of the exhibition center, and the displays in the non-stop spinning frames the inaugural ceremony, the words of the jury‘s members about the merits of the masterpieces of world class jewelry. And, of course, at the focus of the world‘s leading fair these days were perfect creations of jewelry. Ring «Empire» Designer Michael Weggenmann (Germany) Winner «Schmuck Award 2013» Craftsmanship Award SPRING, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 5


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HEA DL I N E Distinction Award Ring «The Russian Seasons» Designer Аnna Dmitrieva (Russia) Company «Elton» (Russia) Winner «Russian Line-2014» Necklace «Sakura» Designer Каzuyо Ishikawа (Japan) Winner «Technology Award, JJA Jewelry Design Awards 2013» Ring «Ancient Charm of Mountain» Designer Xiaodong CAI (Chaina) Winner «The 9th National Gold Jewelry Design Competition» Ring «Reflection» Designer Seyed Моhammad Моrtasavi (Iran) Winner «A Design Award and Competition 2013-2014» Ring «Air» Designer Miwako Yokota (Japan) Winner «JJA Jewelry Design Awards 2013» SPRING, 2 0 1 5 6 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y


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H E AD L IN E Merit Award Plumes Detachable Necklace Pearl Bracelet detached from Necklace Necklace «Plumes» Designer Аlessio Boschi (Italy) Winner «Excellence of Design Award, Bazaar Jewelry Competition 2013» Broach 2 Earrings «Sourse of Light» Designer Luk Тоng Теng (Hong Kong) Winner «The 15th Hong Kong Jewellery Design competition-2014» Pendant/Broach 1 e Plumes necklace complet long version Broach 3 back detail Broach 1 + Pendant 2 Composed of Pendant and Necklace «Daphne» Designer Hulya Меrt (Turkey) Winner «6th Ajoure Jewelry Design Contest 2014» Ring «Bird Nest» Designer Seyed Mohammad (Iran) Winner «A Design Award and Competition 2012-2013» Moscow Jewellery Design Competition «Russian Line» established by Jewellery Review Magazine in 2008. It is also an international «Competition of competitions»: the participation in it allowed pieces become diplomas of various contests in the past two years. Geography of Russian Line knows no borders: it is open to for the best pieces of jewelry, created in Russia, post-Soviet countries, as well as foreign jewelers - immigrants from post-Soviet countries, are brought up in the traditions of Russian and Soviet jewelry school. SPRING, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y Plumes necklace short version 7


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HEA DL I N E On March 5 evening took part a grand party in honor of the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award‘s winners. The Jewellery Gala Dinner, which was under the theme “Royal Retreat”, was attended by the Secretary of the Department of Economy and Trade Gregory So and other leaders of the Trade Development Council of Hong Kong, many celebrities. Prize Champion of Champions gets Timofey Teplinsky This evening the overall success celebrated Lawrence Ma, Chairman of the IJDE Award’s jury, and Alexey Shcherbina, Chairman of the organizing committee of the Russian Line Award - competition, which bring to Hong Kong’s most rating nominees Judges IJDE Award 8 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 5


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H E AD L IN E Anna Teplinskaya: Ring “Existence” demanded concentrate all my spiritual forces Jury member of the “Russian line” Cinthia Unninayar was confident in the victory of our designers SPRING, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 9


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CO M P A N Y «Russian school represents a very high level of professional skills and traditions» One of the members of the jury of the „Russian Line” not for the first time already was Giedymin Jablonski, a well-known artist, expert, curator of numerous art competitions and exhibitions. In the interview he analysed some of the entries and shared his opinion on the Russian school in context of the contemporary European art jewellery. Giedymin, it seems to me that the understanding of form by the Russian designers is somehow different from the Western European. What could you say about it? I agree, but above all I’d like to underline the very high quality of the competition entries especially the mastery of manual skills. Those skills are disappearing in the Western Europe where artists are more concentrated on ideas and concepts. However I have seen very few works of the Russian artists corresponding with the European mainstreams. I respect and highly value conservatism as a way to preserve traditions. Nevertheless if we speak about art and especially about contemporary art then the participation in the international dialogue seems essential. Regrettably I have an impression that this is weak point of Russian jewellery artists. Obviously one may get a thorough education and travel a lot but for artists a direct contact with their professional environment is irreplaceable. Nowadays in the EU and many other countries the exchange programs offered by schools give young people a possibility to study at different universities in different countries. In the history of the Russian art there were moments when it was considered the avant-garde, when masters and critics from all over the world were coming to Moscow and St Petersburg to see the works of Russian artists. The dialogue is necessary also today and when started it could bring wonderful results. Regretfully in some of the competition entries that look somehow naive or out of date, the lack of it is clearly visible But at the same time what is the contemporary design? It is an ocean whose currents depend on the market and fashion trends. The ornaments designers are simply obliged to follow the tendencies in the fashion business. The above mentioned exchange programs working in the EU and many other western countries make possible to Giedymin Jablonski: 10 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y SPRING, 2 0 1 5


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CO MPAN Y participate in the art dialogue from the very beginning. A good example of such approach could be Marta Mattsson, a young, talented Swedish artist who studied in the USA, in Japan, in Sweden; finally she graduated at the Royal College of Art in London. This was for her a wonderful possibility to develop intellectually and professionally as well as to meet other artists, make contacts with galleries etc. Unfortunately such programs do not exist in Russia, but it seems possible and necessary to organize something similar maybe by art foundations. Despite the lack of sufficient communication between Russian and foreign jewellery artists there are some works among the competition entries that could easily participate in this kind of conversation and could be shown anywhere in the world. The Russian Seasons – ring transformers are an example of a highest quality design but at the same time of art. Especially important are their inspirations from the paintings by Kandinsky and Malevich as well as Russian folklore. A very different but also inspired by painting is the ring Tibet containing a reference to the works of Nicholas Roerich. Those pieces are among my favourites. I like a dialogue between artists and different media. A principle in some way similar had been applied in the Existence ring where the dialogue between metal formed by computer techniques and individually hand cut stone creates an excellent consonance counterpoint impression. The bracelet by Tatyana Tarasova is visibly inspired by the Art Nouveau style but in a too traditional way to be called contemporary. A work with an interesting idea is the à rebours “Inside” ring by German Kabirski. It is a top class masterfully made piece of jewellery. I think that it could become even something more if the emphasised by its title inside would contain a kind of message. And what are the main tendencies of the contemporary European school of design? To be precise I must say that I am speaking mainly about the art jewellery. There are of course many points of contact of art and design but we must remember that those are two different domains. The tendencies in jewellery design are very clear and strictly connected with fashion. In the contemporary art it is difficult to speak about a dominating tendency or style. Not long ago the jewellery works of the leading European artists like Otto Kunzli, Bernhardt Schobinger, Gijs Bakker, Arnaldo Pomodoro, were included in the prestigious Post Modernism exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Nevertheless except the very general label of postmodern, they remained totally individual works. Especially if we speak about the leading jewellery artists we may speak only about their individual styles. Some of them also work in different fields and media. David Watkins a British famous jewellery artist and teacher is also a jazz pianist, sculptor, model-maker for Stanley Kubrick’s 2001 Space Odyssey, as well as the designer of medals for the London 2012 Olympics. Gijs Bakker designs jewellery, home accessories and household appliances, furniture, interiors, public spaces and exhibitions. He established the Chi ha paura...? (Italian for ‚who is afraid of ‘) foundation in 1996 to show the international design world that a piece of jewellery is more than a decorative fashion accessory. Ruudt Peters defines himself as a philosopher and an alchemist, his pieces of jewellery being extensions of a person. This is the whole mysterious and beautiful world. It is impossible to describe it in short words or by a few names. I can just mention here some more of my favourite artists like Manuel Vilhena from Portugal, Peter Chang working in Scotland, Tasso Mattar(Germany/Spain), Esther Knobel (Israel), Vratislav Karel Novak (Czech Republic), Peter Skubic (Austria), Bruce Metcalf (USA). From the youngest generation – Kelly McCallum (UK), Marta Mattsson (Sweden), Felieke Van Der Leest (Norway), Tina Lilienthal (Germany), Hanna Hedman (Sweden), Yoko Izawa (Japan), and many others. I am convinced that contacts and communication between artists and schools could bring great results as the ‘Russian school’ represents a very high level of professional skills and traditions. Nevertheless looking at the Russian Line competition entries I often see close doors and this is bad for both sides. Obviously I don’t want to say that Western Europe is a jewellery artist’s paradise. I mean that for the Russian artist it is essential to familiarize the global space of art and to participate in the international professional dialogue. I am also convinced that it would be not only interesting but also very important for the art jewellery to see more entries by the Russian artists in international contests. SPRING, 2 0 1 5 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWE L L E R Y 11


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CO M P A N Y is very talented country Russia – The largest jewellery contest a traditional floor for promoting to European and Asian designers to local and European markets. This year of the most bodacious Russian designer German Kabirski take part of International Jewellery Design Excellence Award-2015. Talking to a journalist, he shared his views on his creative activities, on the future of the Russian design. What are your impressions on the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award? Beijing graduates dozens of designers more in one year (who have an excellent artistic education) than Russia in ten years. They are hungrier and more daring. Who are your customers? They are quite different. Most of them are nice people, owners of various boutiques and wholesale dealers who are interested in originality. This year, the Chinese have prevailed among all my customers; there appeared some customers from the USA, Kuwait, Holland and South Korea. All of them want to have exclusive things, but I just cannot physically supply them with products. The clients are regular buyers who make orders one or two times a month. There are not so many of them. Germany, Poland, the USA, Australia and more seldom Italy and Japan. Those who make orders rarely are not counted by me. It’s me who is to blame. The things you do, is it art or just products that have their own buyer? Products, of course. I am the only one to think that sometimes supply determines demand. Only sometimes. Any artist wants material independence. Many of them are willing even to dance to somebody else’s tune because of that but not all. I seek for compromises (smiling). Why silver and not gold? Do you mean metal or design? I invent more than 200-300 exclusive models in a month. How reckless you should be to create these gowd freaks in gold? Gold is a metal with a higher status and a bit common, anyway. I use it, not often, however. SPRING, 2 0 1 5 Can Russia be among the leading world brands? Russia is a fantastic talented country. We have a very strong immunity. Even if 70% of Russians emigrate, the remaining 30% who feel endangered at the gene level, will be able to have only the indigo evolution kids. Everything is OK with it. The problem lies elsewhere. We have a very acute herd instinct. As if we were hungry, we are dreaming of getting drowned in the trough called mainstream. Our only hope remains the Underground: the people who create their own world unlike any other. In the modern world, it is the Underground, which is the most honest art because it cannot promote itself due to lack of money. It uses only the Internet and common talk. Such people or such companies that appear from the backwoods become popular brands. 12 RUSSIAN DIAMONDS & JEWEL L E R Y


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